Grilled pizza with fig jam, prosciutto, blue cheese, and arugula

Grilled Pizza with Fig Jam, Prosciutto, Blue Cheese, and Arugula Inspired by a main-course salad that combined grilled figs with slivers of prosciutto and blue cheese on a bed of arugula, I came up with this great combination for a grilled pizza. I substituted fig jam for the grilled figs so there would be a little “glue” on the crust to hold the toppings, and then scattered the prosciutto and blue cheese over top. When baked, the prosciutto crisps at the edges and the cheese warms and softens without melting completely. The arugula garnishes the top, adding color, texture, and a peppery, assertive flavor to the pizza.

YIELD

Makes one 12-inch pizza; serves 4 to 6

INGREDIENTS:

Pizza Dough for Grilled Pizza (recipe follows), at room temperature
1/3 cup fig jam
3 ounces prosciutto di Parma thinly sliced, cut crosswise into thin strips
4 ounces blue cheese crumbled
1 bunch (about 2 ounces) arugula tough stems removed
Flour and medium-grind yellow cornmeal for dusting
Vegetable oil for brushing

Pizza Dough for Grilled Pizza

1 package (2 1/4 teaspoons) active dry yeast
3/4 cup plus 1 tablespoon lukewarm water (90° to 100°F)
1/4 cup rye flour
2 tablespoons olive oil plus more for oiling the bowl
3/4 teaspoon table salt or 1 1/4 teaspoons kosher salt
1 3/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour plus more for dusting

INSTRUCTIONS:

Have the pizza dough covered and ready to roll out.

Prepare a hot fire in a charcoal grill or preheat the center burner of a gas grill on high and the front and back or side burners to medium-low. Place the fig jam, prosciutto, blue cheese, and arugula next to the grill, ready to top the pizza.

Generously dust a pizza peel or large rimless baking sheet with flour and then cornmeal. Flatten the dough on a heavily floured work surface, sprinkling a couple of tablespoons of cornmeal over the flour. Using a rolling pin, roll the dough into a circle 12 to 13 inches in diameter. The dough should be about 1/4 inch thick. If the dough shrinks back at the edges, gently stretch it by hand, being careful to keep the dough a uniform thickness. (The dough does not need to be a perfect circle; in fact, an odd-shaped circle gives the pizza a lovely rustic look.)

Using your hands and working quickly, lift and transfer the dough to the pizza peel or baking sheet. Give the peel or sheet a few shakes back and forth to make sure the dough isn’t sticking. Brush the grill rack generously with oil. Slide the dough onto the center of the grill rack, using a quick jerking motion with your arm. If any part of the dough folds over on itself, use a pair of tongs to unfold it. Immediately cover the grill. Grill until a crust forms and light grill marks appear, 1 to 2 minutes.

Using the pizza peel or baking sheet, flip the pizza crust over and pull it off the grill. Cover the grill while adding the toppings. (If using a charcoal grill, shovel some of the charcoal to one side to create a cooler section. If using a gas grill, turn the center burner to medium.)

Spread the fig jam evenly over the lightly charred crust, leaving a 1-inch border. Scatter the prosciutto over top. Evenly distribute the blue cheese over the prosciutto. Slide the pizza back on the grill towards the hot section but not directly over it. Cover the grill and bake the pizza until nicely browned and crisp on the bottom and at the edges and the cheese has melted, about 7 minutes. Check the pizza after about 3 minutes. If the pizza is browning too quickly, slide it over to the cooler part of the grill to finish baking. Remove any excess flour and cornmeal from the pizza peel or baking sheet and use it to transfer the pizza to a cutting board. Distribute the arugula evenly over the pizza. Slice the pizza into wedges and serve immediately.

Pizza Dough for Grilled Pizza

I have been using this dough recipe for years when making grilled pizza; it’s adapted from Alice Waters’s cookbook, Chez Panisse Pasta, Pizza & Calzone. Often, I will double the dough recipe so I have an extra portion to freeze for an easy weeknight meal or spur of the moment entertaining. This dough is easy to work with, the texture and crispness of the crust is fabulous, and the subtle flavor that comes from the addition of rye flour makes the crust distinct and delicious. Look for rye flour in bulk at natural-foods stores. Substitute whole-wheat flour, if desired.

To make the dough by hand: Begin by making a sponge. In a medium bowl, dissolve the yeast in 1/4 cup of the warm water. Add the rye flour and stir with a wooden spoon or rubber spatula to combine. Cover with plastic wrap and allow to rise in a warm place for 20 to 30 minutes. Add the remaining 1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon warm water, the olive oil, salt, and all-purpose flour to the sponge. Using a wooden spoon, mix the dough, incorporating as much of the flour as possible. Turn the dough out on a lightly floured work surface and knead until soft and elastic, 10 to 12 minutes. It will still be a little sticky but shouldn’t stick to your hands. Add only a minimum amount of flour to the work surface to keep the dough from sticking. Generously oil a large bowl. Add the dough and turn to coat on all sides. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and then place a clean, damp kitchen towel over the top.

To make the dough using a mixer: Fit a heavy-duty stand mixer with the dough hook attachment. In the mixer bowl, stir the yeast into 1/4 cup of the warm water. Add the rye flour and mix on low speed until combined. Place a damp, clean kitchen towel over the mixer to cover the bowl and let the sponge rise for 20 minutes. Add the remaining 1/2 cup plus 1 tablespoon warm water, the olive oil, salt, and all-purpose flour to the sponge. Mix on low speed until the flour is incorporated and the dough gathers together to form a coarse ball, about 3 minutes. Let rest for 2 minutes and then mix on medium-low speed until the dough is smooth and slightly sticky, about 3 minutes longer. Even if the dough seems too sticky, turn the dough out on a well-floured work surface and knead for a minute or two until it forms a smooth ball, adding up to 2 tablespoons of additional flour, if necessary. Generously oil a large bowl, (or use the mixer bowl), add the dough, and turn to coat on all sides.

To allow the dough to rise: Set the bowl in a warm spot (a pilot-heated oven is a good spot, or an electric oven turned to 150ºF for 5 minutes and then turned off). Allow the dough to rise until doubled in volume, about 2 hours. Punch down the dough, cover it, and allow it to rise for another 40 minutes. The dough is now ready to be rolled out. (If you want to make the pizza dough ahead, after the first rising, the dough can be punched down and placed in a large lock-top plastic freezer bag. Refrigerate the dough for up to 12 hours. Bring the dough to room temperature before completing the final rise. Alternatively, freeze the dough for up to 3 months. Thaw overnight in the refrigerator and then bring the dough to room temperature before completing the final rise.)

Makes 16 ounces dough, enough for one 12-inch pizza.

Grilled lamb and pita sandwiches

To me, leg of lamb never tastes better than when it is marinated, crusted with herbs, and grilled medium-rare. For a terrific summer dinner for six, plus enough leftovers for a weeknight sandwich supper, buy a 3½ to 4 pound boned and butterflied leg of lamb. Mince 6 large cloves of garlic, and mix it with ½ cup olive oil, 1 teaspoon of salt, and 2 teaspoons of ground pepper. Marinate in the refrigerator for 1 to 2 hours. Just before grilling, remove the lamb from the marinade and coat one side with ¼ cup dried oregano and the other side with ¼ cup crushed dried rosemary.

For grilled-to-perfection lamb, grill over a medium-hot fire, covered, for about 15 minutes per side. You can slice and peek to check for doneness, but I’m a big fan of instant-read thermometers. Medium-rare is 120º to 130ºF.

YIELD

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS:

2 red bell peppers cored and quartered (see Note)
4 pita breads halved
1 cup plain yogurt
¼ cup mayonnaise
Zest of 1 lemon
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 large English cucumber
1 tablespoon fresh mint finely chopped
½ teaspoon salt
Freshly ground pepper
1 pound grilled leg of lamb thinly sliced, and then cut into thin strips

INSTRUCTIONS:

Preheat the broiler. Place the peppers on a rimmed baking sheet skin-side-up. Broil until the skin is blackened, 8 to 10 minutes. Wrap in damp paper towels and let sit while you make the sauce. Turn the oven to 250ºF. Wrap the pitas in foil and warm in the oven.

While the peppers are roasting prepare the yogurt sauce. Combine the yogurt, mayonnaise, lemon zest and juice in a medium bowl. Trim the ends of the cucumber. Use the coarse side of a box grater to grate about 1/3 of the cucumber, including the peel. Without packing it, measure 1 cup. Grate more if needed. Mix the grated cucumber, mint, and salt into the yogurt mixture. Add pepper to taste. Set aside.

Cut the rest of the cucumber into 2-inch-long matchsticks. Scrape the skin off the peppers and cut into thin strips. Mix the cucumber, peppers, and lamb in a large bowl. Add 2/3 cup of the sauce and gently mix. Fill each pita half and serve immediately. Serve the sandwiches with crudités (raw veggies), using the extra sauce as a dip.

COOKS NOTES

As a time saver, roasted red peppers are available in jars in specialty stores or well-stocked supermarkets. Blot dry with a paper towel before slicing.

Whole roast salmon with farro-herb stuffing

Another memorable presentation when you are entertaining is to serve a whole roast salmon stuffed with a farro pilaf. The stuffing can be cooked several hours or even a day ahead, then cooled and set aside or refrigerated until it is time to stuff the salmon. This will ease last-minute preparations for the cook. Though farro looks a lot like spelt, and many cooks consider them interchangeable, they are not. Look for imported Italian farro, primarily from Abruzzo and Tuscany. It has a sweet, nutty flavor and a more tender texture. Although the farro package calls for soaking the grain, it is not necessary for this recipe. Accompany the salmon with a steamed or sautéed green vegetable—green beans, Brussels sprouts, broccolini—and an easy and satisfying holiday dinner will be at hand. Have drinks and nibbles while the salmon bakes, or start with a soup or salad course.

YIELD

Serves 8

INGREDIENTS:

Farro Pilaf
4 cups canned low-sodium vegetable broth
2 cups water
2 cups farro
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 large clove garlic minced
1 yellow onion cut into 1/4-inch dice
1 yellow bell pepper seeded, deribbed, and cut into 1/4-inch dice
1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1/2 cup pine nuts toasted (see Cook’s Note, page XX)
3 tablespoons capers rinsed and blotted dry
Freshly grated zest of 1 lemon
1/3 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley chopped
1 tablespoon fresh oregano chopped
Vegetable-oil cooking spray
1 (5 to 7 pounds) whole salmon cleaned and scaled, with head and tail left on
Juice of 1 lemon
1/2 cup dry white wine
fresh flat-leaf parsley for garnish Chopped

INSTRUCTIONS:

To make the farro pilaf, in a 6-quart saucepan, bring the vegetable broth and water to a boil over high heat. Add the farro, reduce the heat so the liquid just simmers, and cook the farro until soft but still with a bit of firmness at the center, 20 to 25 minutes. Drain the farro in a sieve placed over a heatproof bowl, reserving the liquid. Place the farro in a bowl and set aside.

In a 12-inch sauté pan over medium heat, heat the oil and swirl to coat the pan. Add the garlic and onion and sauté, stirring frequently, until soft but not brown, about 3 minutes. Add the bell pepper and sauté until well coated with the oil and the pepper softens slightly, about 2 minutes longer. Add the farro, 2/3 cup of the reserved liquid, and the salt and pepper. Stir to combine. Add the pine nuts, capers, lemon zest, parsley, and oregano, stir to combine, and cook for 1 minute longer. Remove from the heat and set aside.

Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 400ºF. Line a large rimmed baking sheet (11 by 17 inches) with aluminum foil. Spray the foil with the cooking spray. Place the salmon on the pan, positioning diagonally if necessary to make it fit. If the fish is still too large, use a sharp chef’s knife to cut off the head. Squeeze the lemon juice all over the fish, and then tilt the fish on its back, open the cavity, and squeeze lemon juice inside. Lay the fish back on its side and spoon the cooled farro pilaf along the length of the cavity, mounding it and allowing some to tumble out. Place any remaining pilaf in a buttered baking dish and heat separately. Pour the evenly wine over the fish. Spray a second sheet of foil large enough to cover the fish with nonstick spray and place it, sprayed side down over the fish to cover completely.

Place the pan in the oven and bake the fish for 30 minutes. Remove the foil from the salmon and bake the fish for 10 minutes longer. Insert an instant-read thermometer into the thickest part of the fish, avoiding the spine; when it registers 125° to 130°F, the fish is done. My preference is for the fish to be closer to 125°F, when it’s moist and just beginning to flake.

Remove the pan from the oven and let the fish rest for 5 minutes. Using 2 large spatulas, transfer the fish to a large, warmed platter. Scatter the chopped parsley around the sides of the platter for garnish. (Alternatively, if you would rather carve the fish and plate the servings in the kitchen, instead of presenting the salmon whole at the table, leave the fish in the pan.)

To serve the fish whole, peel off the top skin or leave it on. (This decision is up to the chef—you either like salmon skin or you don’t.) Using a carving knife, cut along the seam running lengthwise down the middle of the side of the fish, then make cuts crosswise into serving-sized portions. Using a knife and serving spatula, loosen the pieces of fish. This will make it easier for your guests to serve themselves. When the top fillet has been served with generous spoonfuls of the farro pilaf, spoon the remaining stuffing to the side so you can lift off the backbone and ribs. Cut the bottom fillet into crosswise portions and serve with the pilaf.

If you are plating individual servings in the kitchen, follow the same procedure, portioning the salmon and pilaf onto each warmed plate. Garnish with the chopped parsley.

Shrimp poached in beer with cajun mayonnaise

YIELD

Serves 10 to 12

INGREDIENTS:

1 1/2 pounds shrimp (41 to 50 per pound)
16 ounces beer
2 cloves garlic peeled, left whole
1 teaspoon coarse salt
1 bay leaf
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
3 small, dried hot red peppers crushed with seeds
Juice of 1/4 lemon
1 tablespoon chopped fresh cilantro

INSTRUCTIONS:

Wash the shrimp, leaving the shells intact. Drain well. In a medium sauté pan, add the beer and remaining ingredients. Bring to a boil, then add the shrimp. When the shrimp turn pink, cook for one minute longer, then remove with a slotted spoon and reserve. Let the beer mixture cool. Add back the shrimp and refrigerated for at least 4 hours. Remove 20 minutes before serving and accompany with the Cajun Mayonnaise. Let the guests do the peeling.

Pan-roasted salmon with green beans, yellow pear tomatoes, and basil oil

This entrée is art on a plate. Brilliantly colored crisp sautéed green beans are paired with little yellow pear tomatoes, and served with a perfectly pan-roasted salmon fillet. The drizzle of basil oil over top adds a top-restaurant-quality look and taste to the plate. Yes, the entrée requires last-minute cooking, but it is easy and quick. Pan-roasting is such a fabulous technique, that once mastered will become part of your regular repertoire for cooking fish, chicken, pork, beef, and even root vegetables. A heavy ovenproof skillet, a good fan for ventilation, and thick oven mitts are all you need. Ever since I learned about pan-roasting, my cast-iron skillet has gotten a heavy workout

YIELD

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS:

12 ounces young green beans preferably haricots verts or baby Blue Lakes
4 (about 6 ounces each) center-cut salmon fillets skin on and scaled, pin bones removed, skin dried by wiping with a knife
Kosher or sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 pint yellow pear tomatoes or other cherry or grape tomatoes
Basil Oil
12 leaves fresh basil
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 teaspoon kosher or sea salt

INSTRUCTIONS:

To make the basil oil: Fill a small saucepan two-thirds full of water and bring to a boil over high heat. Fill a small bowl with about 2 cups of ice water. Add the basil leaves to the boiling water, use a slotted spoon to submerge them, and cook until they turn bright green, 10 seconds. Using the slotted spoon, transfer them to the ice water. As soon as the basil leaves are cold, about 30 seconds, lift them out and squeeze firmly in your hand to release all the water. Pull the leaves apart and transfer them to a blender or mini-chop food processor. Add the olive oil and salt and blend or process until puréed. Transfer to a small container and set aside. (The basil oil can be made up to 5 days in advance and refrigerated in a small jar with a tight-fitting lid. It can also be frozen for up to 1 month.)

Arrange an oven rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 450ºF. Have ready 2 large skillets: a large, heavy ovenproof skillet, preferably cast iron, for cooking the salmon, and a large skillet for sautéing the green beans. Season the salmon on all sides with a little salt and pepper. Heat 2 tablespoons of the olive oil in the ovenproof skillet over high heat until almost smoking. Swirl to coat the pan and then add the salmon, skin side down. Cook over high heat until the skin is browned and crisp, about 4 minutes. After about 3 minutes, shake the pan once to make sure the fillets aren’t sticking. Carefully turn the fillets, then transfer the skillet to the oven and roast the salmon until the fish is almost opaque throughout, but still very moist, about 4 minutes longer.

As soon as the salmon goes into the oven, place the other skillet over high heat and add the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil. Swirl to coat the pan and add the green beans. Sauté, stirring frequently, until the beans are bright green and crisp tender, about 3 minutes. Add the tomatoes, a little salt and pepper, and sauté until the tomatoes are heated through, 1 minute. Add 3 tablespoons of the basil oil to the skillet, stir a couple of times, and then remove the pan from the heat.

To serve, divide the vegetables among 4 warmed dinner plates and place a piece of salmon on top. Spoon a little more basil oil over each piece of salmon and serve immediately.

Grilled salmon brochettes with mango-orange-habanero mojo

One look and one taste of this entrée and you know you’ve made a winner. An herb, garlic, and ginger marinade slicks the salmon, making every tender bite a fusion of flavor. This mojo is big, bright and spiced—a vibrant orange-glow sauce that is deliriously delicious, punctuated with cilantro, and power-surged with habanero chile. If you and your friends can take the heat, use a whole habanero; half is plenty for me.

This recipe could easily be doubled or tripled for a big backyard party, or combine these skewers with the Grilled Salmon Brochettes with a Chili-Cumin Rub for a mix-and-match platter. Serve the skewers accompanied with rice, or a citrus-infused couscous, or on a bed of noodles.

Suggested wine:

Spanish albariño or Portuguese alvarinho

YIELD

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS:

Marinade

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons Asian sesame oil
1/4 cup fresh cilantro minced
2 large cloves garlic minced
1 tablespoon fresh ginger peeled and minced
1 (about 2 pounds) center-cut salmon fillet skin and pin bones removed, cut into 1 1/4-inch cubes
8 10-inch bamboo skewers

Mango-Orange-Habanero Mojo

2 tablespoons rice vinegar
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
1 ripe mango peeled, pitted, and cut into large chunks
1/3 cup fresh orange juice
1/2/2012 habanero or Scotch bonnet chile (or more to taste), seeded, deribbed, and coarsely chopped
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
2 red bell peppers seeded, deribbed, and cut into 1-inch squares (about 32 pieces)
4 green onions including green tops, cut into 1-inch lengths (about 32 pieces)
Kosher or sea salt
Vegetable oil for brushing

INSTRUCTIONS:

To make the marinade: In a medium bowl, combine the olive oil, sesame oil, cilantro, garlic, and ginger. Stir well to blend. Add the salmon cubes and toss gently to coat on all sides with the marinade. Cover and set aside at room temperature for up to 45 minutes. (The salmon can be covered and refrigerated for up to 2 hours. Remove from the refrigerator 30 minutes before grilling.) Soak the bamboo skewers in water for at least 30 minutes, then drain.

Prepare a medium-hot fire in a charcoal grill or preheat a gas grill to medium-high.

To make the mojo: Combine the rice vinegar, cumin, and salt in a measuring cup and stir to dissolve the salt. In a blender, combine the mango, orange juice, and chile; blend until puréed. Blend in the rice vinegar mixture. Taste and add more chile, if desired. Add the cilantro and blend, with a quick on and off, just until mixed through. Transfer to a bowl or sauceboat and set aside.

To assemble the skewers, thread a cube of salmon, followed by a piece of red pepper and green onion, on a skewer. Repeat the process 3 more times. Repeat with the remaining 7 skewers. Season each skewer with a little salt, rotating to season evenly.

When ready to grill, brush the grill grate with vegetable oil. Place the skewers directly over the medium-hot fire. Cover the grill and cook on one side, about 4 minutes. Turn and cover again. Cook about 4 minutes longer, or until the salmon is almost opaque throughout, but still very moist.

To serve, have ready 4 warmed dinner plates. If serving the skewers over rice, arrange some rice in the center of each plate and place 2 skewers on top. Drizzle some of the mojo over the top and around the perimeter of each plate. Serve immediately. Pass the extra mojo at the table.

Alder-planked salmon with fresh herbs

Grilling salmon on a wood plank imparts a sweet, smoky, slightly charred flavor to the fish. The possibilities for flavor depend on the type of wood you use—alder, cedar, or oak—and the sauce, marinade, or rub you choose. This recipe explains the basics of grilling fish on a plank and gives a delicious flavor combination: herb-rubbed salmon on an alder plank.

YIELD

Serves 6 to 8

INGREDIENTS:

1 untreated alder plank about 15 by 7 by 3/8 inch (see Cook’s Note)
1 (about 3 pounds) whole side of salmon skin on and scaled, pin bones removed
Extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher or sea salt
Freshly ground pepper
4 sprigs fresh thyme leaves only
4 sprigs fresh rosemary leaves only
1/2/2012 lemon

INSTRUCTIONS:

Rinse the cedar plank and place it in a pan or sink filled with water. Soak the plank for about 20 minutes. (The plank can be submerged in water and left to soak all day, so plan ahead and soak the plank before you leave for work.)

Prepare a medium fire in a charcoal grill or preheat a gas grill on medium.

Rub the salmon with olive oil and sprinkle lightly on both sides with salt and pepper. Scatter the thyme and rosemary leaves over the flesh, pressing them lightly so they adhere to the flesh. Set aside while the grill heats.

When ready to grill, place the soaked plank on the grill grate directly over the medium fire and cover. After a few minutes, the plank will begin to smoke and crackle. Turn the plank over, re-cover, and “toast” the other side for about 2 minutes. Uncover the grill, transfer the whole salmon fillet to the plank, and then re-cover the grill. Cook the salmon until it is almost opaque throughout but still very moist when tested with a knife, or an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center registers 125º to 130ºF, 15 to 25 minutes, depending on the thickness of the fillet. (Keep a spray bottle with water nearby in case the plank gets too hot and begins to flame. Extinguish the flame and continue grilling the salmon, adjusting the heat level if necessary.)

Using 2 long spatulas, transfer the salmon to a warmed platter. Use tongs, heatproof gloves, or the spatulas to remove the plank from the heat and set it aside to cool. Squeeze the lemon half over the salmon, cut into individual servings, and serve immediately. Alternatively, for a rustic presentation, leave the salmon on the plank and place the plank on a large heatproof platter.

COOKS NOTES

Purchase untreated alder, cedar, or oak planks from lumberyards or hardware stores and have them cut to size or cut them yourself. Or, for a slightly more expensive approach, buy precut planks specifically for grilling or baking salmon at gourmet cookware stores or by mail order. A plank can be reused if it isn’t too charred or cracked. Once the plank has cooled, brush it clean with a grill brush, set it upright to dry, and then store it in a brown paper bag. Resoak it before using.

Sautéed chicken breasts with tarragon and lime

This recipe has become a regular in our cooking repertoire. Using three coatings for the chicken is a classic technique. By dipping the chicken breasts first in flour, the egg has something to hold on to. The egg coating provides additional moisture and flavor and holds the bread crumbs, which offer a crusty texture. If you get organized at the outset by assembling two baking sheets, two plates for the flour and bread crumbs, and a bowl for the eggs, then you just have to coat and sauté the chicken.

YIELD

Serves 6

INGREDIENTS:

3 whole or 6 half boneless, skinless chicken breasts
1/3 cup all-purpose flour
3 large eggs
1 1/2 cups unseasoned dry bread crumbs
1 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1/2 teaspoon granulated sugar
1/4 cup fresh tarragon minced or 2 tablespoons dried tarragon leaves
2 tablespoons olive oil plus more as needed
2 tablespoons unsalted butter plus more as needed
2 limes cut into wedges, for garnish

INSTRUCTIONS:

Place a long piece of plastic wrap on a work surface. Set chicken breasts, about 3 inches apart, on plastic, then cover with another piece of plastic wrap. Using a flat (nonserrated) meat pounder or bottom of a small saucepan, pound chicken so it is uniformly thin, without tearing it.

Organize the 3 coatings. Place flour on a dinner plate. In a shallow, wide bowl, beat eggs together; set next to flour. Combine bread crumbs, salt, pepper, sugar, and tarragon on another plate and set next to eggs. Have ready 2 baking sheets. Lightly coat each chicken breast first with flour, shaking off excess. Then dip in egg and let excess drain off. Finally, coat lightly, but completely, with crumb mixture. Place on baking sheets until ready to sauté. (This may be done up to 6 hours in advance. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to cook.)

Heat a heavy, 12-inch frying pan (preferably cast iron) over medium-high heat, add oil and butter, and tilt to coat pan. (If sautéing chicken in 2 batches, preheat oven to 200 F.) Add chicken to pan without crowding and sauté until bread coating looks crisp and golden, 2 to 3 minutes per side. Sauté a second batch, adding additional oil and butter if needed. Keep first batch warm while sautéing second. Serve hot, garnished with lime wedges.