Roast chicken with lemon, garlic, and fresh rosemary

Roast chicken-a perfect Sunday night supper. Cook 2 birds for guaranteed leftovers. Butter, lemon, garlic, and rosemary flavor the birds, but the possibilities are endless. When blood oranges are in season, try substituting them for the lemons, leaving out the garlic and using fresh mint instead of rosemary.

YIELD

Makes 2 roast chickens, 1 to serve and 1 to reserve for week-night leftovers

INGREDIENTS:

2 whole fresh chickens (4 1/2 to 4 3/4 pounds each)
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter
Juice of 2 lemons (quarter and reserve squeezed lemons)
4 garlic cloves halved lengthwise
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
6 sprigs fresh rosemary each about 3 inches long

INSTRUCTIONS:

Preheat the oven to 375°F. Remove the sacks of giblets from the chickens. Freeze the neck, heart, and gizzards for stock; fry the liver for a four-legged friend. Pull out and discard any large fat deposits from the cavities. Trim any loose skin and trim off the tails. Pat dry with paper towels.

Line a large roasting pan with aluminum foil for easy clean-up, unless the pan is nonstick. Place a roasting rack or large wire cake rack in the pan. In a small saucepan, melt the butter. Add the lemon juice, garlic, salt, and pepper. Heat through.

Set the chickens on the roasting rack, breast-side up. Place 3 rosemary sprigs and 4 lemon quarters in each cavity. Brush the seasoned butter on the birds, coating them well. Place the roasting pan in the lower half of the oven and roast, basting every 20 minutes, until the juices run clear when a sharp knife is inserted into the joint between the body and thigh, or when an instant-read thermometer registers 170°F inserted at the same point, about 1 hour. Remove the chickens from the oven, baste again, cover loosely with aluminum foil, and let rest for 10 minutes before you carve and serve one of the chickens. Cut the other chicken in half, wrap each half well, and store in the refrigerator for up to 4 days. One of halves will be used for Biscuit-Topped Chicken Pie, the other half will used for Asian Chicken Salad with Green Onion-Sesame Dressing.

How to truss a turkey

truss-a-turkey.jpg

To Truss an Unstuffed Turkey
Have ready one 4-foot length of kitchen twine. Place the turkey, breast side up, on a work surface with the legs facing you. Arrange the flap of neck skin so it covers the neck cavity. Center the twine across the back (on the work surface) under the shoulders of the turkey, making sure it secures the neck skin. With an end in each hand, pull the string up over the top of the breast, tightening it so the wings are drawn in close to the body; then cross over the two ends and tie. Now bring the twine down to the legs, bring the legs together, wrap the string around the ends (knobs) of the legs, and tie a knot. Trim any extra length of string.
To Truss a Stuffed Turkey

Have ready one 4-foot length of kitchen twine and one 1-foot length, plus 4 or 5 thin metal skewers or poultry pins. Loosely fill both the neck and chest cavities with stuffing.* (Stuffing expands when heated, which is why you don’t want it packed in the cavities. Put any extra stuffing in a buttered baking pan and bake it separately.) Pull the flap of neck skin over the stuffed neck cavity and secure it to the body with a skewer. Now pull the skin together on either side of the chest cavity and close it securely with 3 or 4 skewers. Using the short piece of twine, tie a knot around the tail. Lace the twine up the skewers, from bottom to top, as if lacing a shoe; then knot the ends of the string together. Cut off the excess string. Use the 4-foot length to tie the rest of the bird as directed in the instructions for trussing an unstuffed turkey.

Quick Trussing Method

The simplest way to keep a turkey contained without a lot of fuss, whether the turkey is stuffed or unstuffed, is to tie the legs together with kitchen twine so they hold their shape, and to tuck the wing tips under, bending the wing tip back and under the second wing joint.

* The stuffing should be at room temperature. Cold stuffing, when packed inside the turkey, may not reach 165°F (the temperature it needs to reach to avoid harmful bacteria from developing) by the time the turkey is done.”

Roast turkey for a small gathering

Roasting a turkey breast is a practical solution for a small Thanksgiving gathering. It’s quick, makes a lovely presentation, and there will be a manageable amount of leftovers. If the die-hard, dark-meat lovers grumble, just offer them an extra piece of pie. This turkey breast will be moist, beautifully browned, and brightly flavored with lemon juice and fresh herbs.

INGREDIENTS:

1 whole (double) (4 1/2 to 5 pounds) bone-in turkey breast
1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons fresh rosemary minced
1 1/2 tablespoons fresh thyme minced
2 teaspoons fresh sage minced
Kosher salt
Freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon all-purpose flour
1 cup homemade chicken stock or canned low-sodium chicken broth

INSTRUCTIONS:

Position a rack on the second-lowest level in the oven and preheat to 375°F. Trim any visible fat from the turkey breast, and save the neck, if included, for making gravy. Pat the turkey breast dry with paper towels. Place a rack in a roasting pan and set the turkey breast on the rack.

In a 2-cup glass measure, combine the lemon juice, olive oil, rosemary, and thyme. At the top of the breast, slide your fingers back and forth under the skin to separate it from the breast meat, creating a pocket over the entire breast. Pour half the mixture inside this pocket, and the rest over the turkey breast, coating it well. Season the turkey with salt and pepper to taste. Set the turkey breast on the rack, skin side up.

Roast the turkey breast, basting every 30 minutes, until the juices run clear when a sharp knife is inserted into the thickest part of the breast, or when an instant-read thermometer, inserted in the same spot and not touching bone, registers 165ºF, about 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours. Transfer the turkey breast to a carving board, and cover the breast loosely with aluminum foil. Allow the turkey breast to rest for 10 to 15 minutes before carving to let the juices set.

While the turkey is resting, make a quick gravy. In a small jar with a tight-fitting lid, mix together the flour and 2 tablespoons of the chicken stock. Place the roasting pan over medium heat, add the remaining stock to the pan, and bring to a simmer. Using a wooden spoon, scrape and loosen any brown bits sticking to the bottom and sides of the pan. Shake the flour mixture again and add to the stock in the pan. Stir until the gravy is smooth and thickened; then ladle into a gravy boat or small bowl.

Carve the turkey breast following the directions on page 80. Serve, accompanied by the gravy.

Chili-rubbed chicken thighs with smashed grilled potatoes and mole sauce

It’s easy to juggle the cooking of the potatoes and chicken thighs. I arrange the potatoes on the cool side of the grill about 10 minutes after I start the grill, so they get a jump start on cooking. While the chicken thighs are searing and the lid of the grill is open, I turn the potatoes once, then I let them finish cooking along with the thighs when the thighs are moved to the cool side and the grill is covered. If you have a gas grill with more than two burners, you might need to turn off an additional burner to accommodate all of the food.

YIELD

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS:

8 bone-in, skin-on chicken thighs
Extra-virgin olive oil
1/3 cup Grill Every Day Spice Rub (recipe follows)
1/4 cup store-bought mole (see Cook’s Note)
1 cup canned low-sodium chicken broth
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
1/8 teaspoon sugar
Grill-Roasted and Smashed Baby White Potatoes (from Grill Every Day)
1/3 cup fresh cilantro chopped(optional)

Grill Everyday Spice Rub

1/4 cup kosher or sea salt
2 tablespoons coarsely ground pepper
1 tablespoon ground coriander
3 tablespoons ground cumin
2 tablespoons sweet paprika
2 tablespoons dried thyme crushed
2 tablespoons chili powder
1/4 cup dark brown sugar packed
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon

INSTRUCTIONS:

Prepare a medium-hot fire in a charcoal grill or preheat a gas grill on medium-high.

Trim the chicken thighs of any excess skin and fat. Place the thighs in a large bowl, drizzle olive oil over the top, and rub the thighs all over with oil. Rub the thighs all over with the spice rub.

To create a cool zone, bank the coals to one side of the grill or turn off one of the burners. Oil the grill grate. Place the chicken thighs, skin side down, directly over the medium-hot fire and sear on one side, about 3 minutes. Turn and sear on the other side, about 7 minutes. Move the chicken to the cooler part of the grill, cover, and grill until the juices run clear when the thickest part of a thigh is pierced with a knife, or an instant-read thermometer registers 165ºF, 10 to 15 minutes longer.

While the chicken is grilling, prepare the mole sauce. In a small saucepan, combine the mole, chicken stock, cinnamon, salt, and sugar and place over medium-low heat. Simmer, stirring occasionally, until the sauce smooth and thickened, about 5 minutes. Keep warm.

To serve, spoon enough mole sauce on each dinner plate to cover the surface lightly. Arrange 2 or 3 smashed potatoes in the center of each plate, and set 2 chicken thighs on top. Serve immediately.

Grill Every Day Spice Rub

This is my favorite big-flavored spice blend, guaranteed to ignite great taste when rubbed on shrimp, scallops, chicken, beef, lamb, buffalo, or pork. This recipe yields just over a cup; I tend to triple it, so I have extra rub on my pantry shelf when I need it. I make the big batch on a weekend when I have extra time, and then—voilà—it’s there when I want it on a time-strapped weeknight.

In a small bowl, combine the salt, pepper, coriander, cumin, paprika, thyme, chili powder, sugar, and cinnamon. Stir well to blend. Use immediately, or transfer to a jar with a tight-fitting lid and store away from heat and light for up to 6 months.

Makes about 1 1/4 cups

COOKS NOTES

Mole sauce, such as Doña Maria brand, is available at Latin American markets, specialty-foods stores, and most supermarkets. Use this doctored sauce on everything from chicken enchiladas to sliced turkey.

Grilled chicken breasts with tarragon-mustard paste

This is my no-brainer weeknight grilled chicken meal. I use this same mustard paste on chicken thighs and wings. Whisk together the mustard mixture, slather it on the chicken breasts, and you’re good to grill. There’s even time while the grill is getting hot to make a salad. Try the Middle Eastern Chickpea Salad on page 180 or Israeli Couscous with Zucchini, Red Bell Pepper, and Parsley on page 171; either is a terrific choice.

YIELD

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS:

1/3 cup Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon dried tarragon leaves crushed
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
4 boneless, skin-on chicken breast halves

INSTRUCTIONS:

Prepare a medium-hot fire in a charcoal grill or preheat a gas grill on medium-high.

In a bowl or baking dish large enough to hold the chicken, combine the mustard, olive oil, tarragon, and pepper. Stir to mix thoroughly. Add the chicken breasts and turn to coat on both sides. Set aside until the grill is ready.

To create a cool zone, bank the coals to one side of the grill or turn off one of the burners. Oil the grill grate. Place the chicken breasts, skin side down, directly over the medium-hot fire and sear on one side, about 5 minutes. Turn and sear on the other side for 5 minutes. Move the chicken breasts to the cooler part of the grill, cover, and grill until the juices run clear when the thickest part of a chicken breast is pierced with a knife, or an instant-read thermometer registers 165°F, 5 to 7 minutes longer.

Divide the chicken breasts among warmed plates. Serve immediately.

Chicken and artichoke fricassee

INGREDIENTS:

6 to 8 fresh “baby” artichokes or 1 can artichoke hearts
1 lemon
6 to 8 small whole potatoes or 3 to 4 quartered large potatoes, peeled (optional)
1 stick (4 ounces) unsalted butter
1 frying chicken cut-up or 6 to 8 chicken pieces
Salt and pepper to taste
1 small bunch green onions chopped
1 cup dry white wine
1 tablespoon fresh dill chopped, or 1 teaspoon dried
1 cup plain yogurt
1 tablespoon flour

INSTRUCTIONS:

Preheat oven to 350°. Prepare the fresh artichokes by bending back the lower, outer petals until they snap off. With a serrated knife cut off the artichoke tops about 1/3 of the way down. Cut off the stems. Trim the base and rub all surfaces with a cut lemon half. Cook about 10 minutes or until they are tender when pierced with a fork in the base. Drain. Canned artichokes need only rinsing; no cooking is required.

Arrange the artichokes and potatoes, if you use them, in a buttered 2- 1/2 quart casserole.

Brown the chicken pieces in the butter in a large skillet until they are well-browned on both sides, about 15 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste. Arrange the chicken pieces over the vegetables in the casserole.

Cook the green onions in the pan drippings until they are soft. Add the wine and cook until it has reduced by half. Pour the pan juices over the chicken pieces in the casserole and sprinkle the dill over the top.

Cover the casserole and bake in a preheated oven for about 45 minutes, or until the chicken pieces register 180° on an instant read thermometer. Remove the chicken and vegetables to a warmed platter.

Combine the yogurt and flour, then add to the drippings in the casserole and cook over low heat, stirring constantly. Do not allow the sauce to boil. Pour the sauce over the chicken and vegetables on the platter, or return them to the casserole and top with the sauce. Serve immediately.

COOKS NOTES

If you use small chicken pieces such as separated legs or thighs, or boneless breast pieces, they will cook more quickly than larger cuts. In this case, you may need to bake the casserole for only about 25 minutes, and the potatoes will need to be precooked until they are not quite tender, before placing them in the casserole.

Brining a Turkey

When I wrote my first Thanksgiving book, The Thanksgiving Table (Chronicle Books, 2001), brining a turkey was still a novel method for most home cooks. As I traveled the country teaching Thanksgiving cooking classes, I always demonstrated how to brine a turkey and gave the students an opportunity to taste how moist and flavorful a brined turkey could be. Each year, I respond to lots of preholiday e-mail queries about preparing a turkey and inevitably receive lots of post-holiday e-mails thanking me for my suggestions on brining. After brining and cooking several hundred pounds of turkey each November for my classes, I am convinced that brining produces the juiciest and tastiest turkey I have ever eaten.

YIELD

Makes 3 1/2 quarts brine; enough for a 10- to 25-pound turkey

INGREDIENTS:

Juniper Brine or Apple Cider Brine (recipes follow)
1 (10 to 25 pounds) fresh or thawed turkey
2 oranges quartered (if you are using Apple Cider Brine)
Juniper Brine
2/3 cup kosher salt
2/3 cup sugar
5 fresh sage leaves
4 sprigs resh thyme
2 bay leaves
6 whole cloves
1 teaspoon juniper berries crushed
1/2 teaspoon black peppercorns crushed
2 teaspoons whole allspice berries crushed
Apple Cider Brine
2/3 cup kosher salt
2/3 cup sugar
6 quarter-size slices fresh ginger
2 bay leaves
6 whole cloves
1 teaspoon black peppercorns crushed
2 teaspoons whole allspice berries crushed
8 cups unsweetened apple cider or juice

INSTRUCTIONS:

Special Equipment:

2 turkey-size plastic oven bags (see Cook’s Note)

Have ready a heavy roasting pan large enough to hold the turkey. Place a plastic oven bag inside a second one to create a double thickness (see Cook’s Note); then place these bags, open wide, in the roasting pan. Remove the turkey from its wrapping. Remove the neck and bag of giblets from the main and neck cavity of the bird. Store separately in the refrigerator for making gravy. If using the Apple Cider Brine, at this point, stuff the main cavity of the turkey with the orange quarters.

Fold back the top third of the bags, making a collar (this helps to keep the top of the bag open). Place the turkey inside the double-thick bags, stand it upright, unfold the top of the bag, and pour the Juniper Brine or Apple Cider Brine over the bird. Add an additional 2 cups of cold water. Draw up the top of the inner bag, squeezing out as much air as possible; then secure it closed with a twist tie. Do the same for the outer bag. Place the turkey, breast side down, in the roasting pan and refrigerate for 12 to 24 hours. Turn the turkey 3 or 4 times while it is brining.

Just prior to roasting, remove the turkey from the brine. Discard the bags, brine, and any cured herbs or spices remaining on the bird. Discard the oranges and ginger if using the Apple Cider Brine.) Rinse the turkey under cold water and pat dry with paper towels.

Juniper Brine

Put all the ingredients in a 3- to 4-quart saucepan. Add 8 cups of water and stir to combine. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring until the salt and sugar have dissolved. Boil for 3 minutes; then remove from the heat. Add 4 cups of ice-cold water, stir, and set aside to cool. Then proceed with the directions for Brined Turkey.

Apple Cider Brine

In a 3- to 4-quart saucepan, put the salt, sugar, ginger, bay leaves, cloves, peppercorns, and allspice. Add 8 cups of apple cider or juice and stir to combine. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring until the salt and sugar have dissolved. Boil for 3 minutes; then remove from the heat. Add 4 cups of ice-cold water, stir, and set aside to cool. Then proceed with the directions for Brined Turkey.

COOKS NOTES

The easiest way to crush whole spices is to use a mortar and pestle or a spice grinder. If you do not have either of these kitchen tools, then place the whole spices in a heavy lock-top plastic bag, seal the bag pressing out all the air, and pound them with the bottom of a small, heavy saucepan.

Plastic oven bags (made by Reynolds) are found with other food storage bags at supermarkets. Buy the turkey-size bags. They are food-safe, plus they are big, strong, tear-resistant, and come with twist ties. I do not recommend using plastic garbage bags because they are not intended for food storage. I use a double thickness of bags as a precautionary measure against leakage. For the same reason, I place the bagged turkey in a roasting pan.

Do Ahead

The brine can be made up to 1 day in advance. Cover and set aside at room temperature.

Biscuit-topped chicken pot pie

We hope your memories from childhood include some homemade chicken potpie, not just frozen ones. Here is the perfect opportunity to use half a leftover chicken and some of the biscuits reserved from Sunday night’s dinner.

YIELD

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS:

1 1/2 cups Chicken Stock (recipe follows) or canned low-sodium chicken broth
1 medium (4 ounces) carrot peeled, cut in half lengthwise, then cut into 1/8-inch- thick slices
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 small (about 4 ounces) yellow onion peeled and diced
8 ounces white mushrooms quartered
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
1/2 cup heavy (whipping) cream
1/2/2012 Roast Chicken with Lemon, Garlic, and Fresh Rosemary skinned, meat cut from bones and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1/2 cup fresh parsley minced
Salt and freshly ground pepper to taste
8 frozen Herbed Drop Biscuits (see recipe under “Breads”)
Chicken Stock
4 quarts (about 4 pounds) chicken parts
1 medium carrot unpeeled
1 medium yellow onion unpeeled
1/2 rib celery with leaves
1/2 teaspoon whole black peppercorns
1 bay leaf
1 cup parsley leaves and stems loosely packed

INSTRUCTIONS:

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Set four 12-ounce ramekins on a baking sheet, or use an 8-cup baking dish about 2 inches deep.

In a 1-quart saucepan, bring the stock or broth to a simmer. Add the carrots and simmer until crisp-tender, about 10 minutes. Using a slotted spoon transfer the carrot to a plate and turn off heat under the stock or broth.

Meanwhile, in a 10-inch sauté pan or skillet, melt the butter with the oil over medium heat until the butter foams. Add the onion and sauté until it begins to soften, about 2 minutes. Add the mushrooms and sauté until they just begin to brown, about 3 minutes more. Sprinkle the flour over the onion-mushroom mixture and stir to dissolve. Immediately add the stock or broth, bring to a simmer, and stir until smooth and thickened, about 2 minutes. Add the cream, stir to blend, and bring to a simmer. Add the chicken and parsley, bring to a simmer, then add salt and pepper. Remove from heat.

Divide the chicken mixture among the ramekins or spoon it into the baking dish. Place 2 frozen biscuits on top of the chicken mixture in each ramekin, or evenly space them on top of the chicken mixture in the baking dish. Bake for 12 minutes, or until heated through. Serve immediately.

Chicken Stock

Start today to develop a very smart habit: Store necks, tails, wing tips, gizzards, hearts, backs, rib (breast) bones-anything except livers-in a gallon-size lock-top freezer bag in your freezer. When the bag is really full, you have enough chicken parts to make a small pot of homemade stock. Squeeze excess air out of the bag each time you add chicken pieces; this helps to prevent dehydration known as freezer burn. There are several time-honored methods of making chicken stock. Here is our simple approach to a basic stock.

Select a heavy 4-quart saucepan or a 6- to 8-quart stockpot. Fill it almost to the top with raw chicken parts and cover with cold water, leaving 2 inches of space at top of saucepan or stockpot. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat and reduce heat so that the liquid simmers steadily. Skim off the brown foam that rises to the top, using a soup skimmer, small tea strainer, or serving spoon. After 5 minutes or so the foam will become white; no more skimming is necessary.

Add remaining ingredients. Cover pot loosely and adjust heat so that the liquid just barely simmers. Simmer stock for 4 to 8 hours, adding water if necessary to keep the bones covered.

Remove bones and meat, draining them thoroughly in a colander or strainer set over a large bowl to catch all the juices. Discard bones and meat and pour the collected drippings into the saucepan or stockpot. Pour the stock through a fine strainer into the large bowl, then back into the pot. Set the pot into a sink filled with cold water, changing water after 10 minutes and again after 20 minutes. Cover and refrigerate for up to 3 days.

Before using the stock, scrape the congealed fat from the surface using a slotted spoon or a large serving spoon. Stock is ready to use. It can be frozen in a container, allowing 1-inch of headspace for up to 6 months. If the stock is needed immediately after it is made, use a gravy strainer or a wide, shallow spoon (held just under the surface) to remove the liquid fat.

Makes 3 to 6 quarts.

COOKS NOTES

If you prefer potatoes in your potpie, skip the mushrooms and add a peeled cubed 8-ounce boiling potato to the stock or broth along with the carrots. Simmer for 10 minutes. Set aside and add to the pan along with the carrots. Parsnip would also be good. Follow the same procedure as for a potato. If you like peas, add 1/2 cup frozen peas when you add the chicken and parsley.

Put the chicken carcass in a lock-top plastic bag, label it, and freeze it to save for making stock.