Grilled baby back ribs

The curvature is perfect: no flab at the spine, and so nice for nibbling, especially the crunchy, charred edges around threads of tender meat. The silky-sweet hoisin glaze pumped up with ginger and garlic is meant for licking.

YIELD

Serves 4 to 6

INGREDIENTS:

3 racks (about 1½ pounds each) pork baby back ribs
3 cups Hidden Pleasures Hoisin-Ginger Glaze (recipe follows)
3 cups hickory or apple wood chips
Disposable foil pan
Vegetable oil for brushing
Hoisin-Ginger Glaze
1 cup hoisin sauce
1/2 cup plum sauce
1/2 cup low-sodium soy sauce
1/4 cup pale, dry sherry
1/4 cup Asian sesame oil
2 tablespoons fresh ginger minced
1 1/4 tablespoons garlic minced
1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
1/4 cup honey

INSTRUCTIONS:

Place the ribs flat in a nonreactive roasting pan, or “roll” the racks and fit them into a 1½-gallon resealable plastic bag. Set aside ½ cup of the glaze. Pour the remaining glaze over the ribs, rubbing it onto both sides like a good back massage. (Get one yourself while the ribs are relaxing in the glaze. Beg, plead, or threaten to withhold ribs.) Cover the pan with plastic wrap or tightly seal the bag. Refrigerate 6 to 8 hours to blend the flavors.

Soak the wood chips in cold water to cover for 1 hour. Set up the grill for indirect cooking. Prepare a medium fire in a charcoal grill or preheat one side of a gas or electric grill on medium. Drain the chips and sprinkle half of them over the coals, or place half in the grill’s smoker box. Place a disposable foil pan under the grate to catch drippings.

Brush the grill grate with vegetable oil. Arrange the ribs, meaty-side down, on the side of the grill without hot coals. Cover the grill and smoke-cook the ribs 45 minutes. Turn the ribs and add the remaining wood chips. Cover and grill another 45 minutes. Brush the ribs with half of the reserved glaze. Using long-handled tongs, slide the ribs onto the grate directly over the hot coals. Grill, uncovered, 5 minutes. Turn the ribs over, baste again, and grill another 5 minutes. Cut between the bones, slicing the racks into individual ribs. Serve immediately.

Hidden Pleasures Hoisin-Ginger Glaze

Good fortune comes to those who combine nine classic Asian accents and watch them magically create a thousand layers of sweet, smoky, and pungent flavors.

In a medium bowl combine all the ingredients. Stir thoroughly to blend. Use immediately, or cover and refrigerate up to 1 month. Your fortune cookie should read: Leftover glaze brings easy meal next time. As a rule, foods should only marinate at room temperature up to 1 hour; beyond this, refrigerate.

Marinating times: baby back ribs, 6 to 8 hours or overnight; whole chicken, 6 to 8 hours; chicken parts including wings, 6 to 8 hours; pork tenderloin, 2 to 4 hours. Grill the coated meats as desired.

Makes about 3 cups

COOKS NOTES

Leave the smoked-all-day spare ribs to the dudes. Pork baby backs are sweet and tender and good to go by the time you’ve exchanged war stories from the relationship front.

Do a power mince of fresh ginger. Pack the extra in a jar, cover with sherry and refrigerate up to two months. Work now pays off later, bringing good luck to the harried cook.

Quick beef bourguignonne

In winter it’s nice to dream about making the classic braised French dish, beef Burgundy—marinating the beef in red wine for 12 hours, simmering a braising stock, sautéing all the garnishes—but what about putting your feet up after the Christmas hubbub and using up those leftovers quickly. I’m a traditionalist, so Christmas dinner is usually a standing rib roast with horseradish and roasted new potatoes. The leftover roast beef makes a mighty good sandwich, but is even better in this quick-cooking stew.

If you have leftover steamed potatoes, reheat them to accompany the beef burgundy, otherwise, broad egg noodles cooked and then tossed with butter makes a fine accompaniment. Serve a green salad, some crusty bread, and a nice glass of red wine, then imagine yourself in a French bistro.

YIELD

Serves 4 to 5

INGREDIENTS:

1 bottle (3 cups) red Burgundy wine
2 large shallots thinly sliced
3 tablespoons butter room temperature
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
½ pound large white mushrooms quartered
30 (about 6 ounces) frozen pearl onions thawed
1 can (14½ ounces) beef broth
2 cloves garlic
1 teaspoon dried thyme
1 bay leaf
18 baby carrots peeled
1 tablespoon flour
4 cups (about 1 pound) rare roast beef thinly sliced and cut into 1-inch pieces
½ cup fresh parsley minced
Freshly ground pepper

INSTRUCTIONS:

Simmer wine and shallots in 2½-quart saucepan until reduced by half. Set aside.

Meanwhile, melt 2 tablespoons butter and oil together in large sauté pan over medium heat. Add mushrooms and sauté, stirring constantly, until lightly browned, about 3 minutes. Add onions and sauté until lightly browned, about 3 minutes longer. Turn heat to medium-high and add broth, garlic, thyme, and bay leaf. Simmer until broth is reduced to 1 cup, about 5 minutes. Add wine mixture and carrots. Adjust heat to medium and simmer until carrots are tender, about 6 minutes.

In small bowl, mix together flour and remaining tablespoon butter until thoroughly blended. Add beef and parsley to pan. Stir in butter-flour mixture until completely absorbed and sauce is thickened. Add pepper to taste.

Remove garlic and bay leaf before serving. Serve with buttered egg noodles, or with steamed new potatoes.

The big beef burger stuffed with blue cheese

For blue cheese lovers, nothing beats a beef burger seared on the outside, with a warm nugget of melting cheese in the center. Use a tangy, full-flavored blue cheese with lots of blue veining and a hint of salt. I’ve kept these burgers simple, with the addition of just lettuce, tomato, and mayonnaise, but add whatever condiments you like, including bacon strips or grilled onions.

YIELD

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS:

1 1/2 pounds freshly ground chuck
3 tablespoons yellow onion grated
1 tablespoon fresh thyme minced
1 1/2 teaspoons reshly ground pepper
4 tablespoons crumbled blue cheese
2 tablespoons canola oil
4 sesame-seed hamburger buns split
4 lettuce leaves
1 large tomato sliced
Mayonnaise
Pickles

INSTRUCTIONS:

Prepare a hot fire in a charcoal grill or preheat a gas grill on high.

In a large bowl, combine the beef, onion, thyme, and pepper and mix thoroughly. Divide into 4 equal portions and shape each portion into a ball. Press your thumb into the top of a ball, making a depression about 1 inch deep. Spoon 1 tablespoon of the cheese into the depression, press the beef over the cheese to enclose it, and shape the ball into a patty 1 inch thick. Repeat to form 3 more patties. Refrigerate the patties while the grill heats.

Oil the grill grate. Brush the burgers on both sides with the canola oil. Place the burgers directly over the hot fire and sear on one side, 4 to 5 minutes. Turn and sear on the other side until juicy and medium-rare, about 4 minutes more. Place the buns, cut side down, on the grill to toast during the last minute the burgers are cooking.

Serve the burgers on the toasted buns with the lettuce, tomato, and mayonnaise. Pass the pickles.

Teriyaki-style pork tenderloin with asian noodles

Whether you high-heat-roast or grill pork tenderloin it’s a quick and easy entree. Use your favorite bottled teriyaki sauce and marinate 2 pork tenderloins for 30 minutes. I love the smoky taste and slightly charred flavor that comes from grilling, but roasting at 450°F. also gives good results. In either case, use an instant read thermometer to check for doneness. The pork will be juicy and tender when the thermometer reads 145°F. For a family of 4 serve one and a half tenderloins and save the other half for an Asian-style noodle dish the following night.

Look in the Asian section of a well-stocked grocery for Japanese somen, a very fine white, wheat noodle, or Chinese egg noodles. Quick to cook, the noodles pair beautifully with slivers of pork, rounds of green onions, and a little fresh ginger root.

YIELD

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS:

1/4 cup soy sauce
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
3 tablespoons Asian sesame oil
2 teaspoons granulated sugar
2 teaspoons fresh ginger root finely minced
1 package (16 ounces) Asian noodles
3/4 cup carrot shredded or matchstick-cut
2 green onions including green tops, cut into matchstick-size slivers
1/2/2012 teriyaki grilled pork tenderloin cut into matchstick-size slivers

INSTRUCTIONS:

Fill an 8- to 10-quart stockpot two-thirds full of water, cover, and bring to a boil over high heat. In a large bowl, combine the soy sauce, vinegar, sesame oil, sugar, and ginger root. Stir to combine and dissolve the sugar. Set aside.

Add 1 tablespoon salt to the boiling water and cook the noodles until cooked through but still slightly chewy, about 5 minutes.

Drain off about half of the pasta water, then add 1 quart of ice water to the pot, stir the noodles, then immediately drain the noodles thoroughly in a colander. Add the noodles to the soy dressing and toss well. Add the carrots, green onions and pork. Toss to combine. Taste and adjust the seasonings. Serve immediately.

Roast loin of pork stuffed with apricots and dried plums

This roast is simple enough for a Sunday supper with the family yet elegant enough for entertaining during the holidays. In either instance, it is a snap to prepare. The dried fruit creates a colorful and immensely flavorful channel down the center of the roast. The mustard coating seals in the moisture, creating a delicious crust. Arrange overlapping slices of the roast on a platter and serve with Wild Rice with Roasted Chestnuts and Cranberries or Whipped Garnet Yams with a Pecan Praline Crust and a seasonal vegetable.

YIELD

Serves 6

INGREDIENTS:

1 (about 2 1/2 pounds) boneless top loin pork roast
3 ounces (about 14) dried apricots
5 ounces (about 16) dried pitted plums (prunes)
4 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1/4 teaspoon garlic powder
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
2 carrots peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks
2 ribs celery trimmed and cut into 1-inch chunks
1 medium yellow onion cut into 1-inch chunks
1 cup dry white wine

INSTRUCTIONS:

Position a rack in the lower third of the oven. Preheat the oven to 350° F.

Stand the roast on its end and insert a thin-bladed knife down the center of the roast lengthwise, creating a tube-like opening. Stuff the length of the roast with the dried fruit, stacking a piece of apricot on top of a prune as you stuff it. (If necessary, cut a slit at the other end of the roast and stuff half the fruit from one side of the roast and half the fruit from the other side.)

In a small bowl combine the mustard with the garlic powder and pepper. Rub the roast all over with the mustard mixture.

Arrange the carrots, celery, and onion in the bottom of a 9-by-13-inch baking pan. Place the roast on top of the vegetables. Pour the wine over top and add up to 1/2 cup water to the pan. (The liquid should cover the bottom of the pan but be below the bottom of the roast.)

Roast the pork, uncovered, for 45 minutes, or until an instant-read meat thermometer registers 155°F. (Insert the thermometer into the meat portion of the roast, keeping the tip away from the fruit.)

Remove from the oven, transfer the roast to a carving board, tent loosely with foil, and let rest for 10 minutes. (Discard the vegetables and liquid in the pan.)

Mustard-and-rosemary-crusted lamb steaks

Once I discovered how easy it is to cook lamb leg steaks on the grill, I tried all sorts of rubs and pastes for different flavor profiles. Here’s another terrific preparation. Serve the steaks with Quick-Grilled Ratatouille or Cherry Tomato Skewers with Fresh Basil, both recipes featured in my cookbook, Grill Every Day. These steaks are so fast to prepare, you’ll even have time to make one of the Treasured Sides. Grill-Roasted New Potatoes (recipe follows) or Israeli Couscous with Zucchini, Red Bell Pepper, and Parsley are good choices.

YIELD

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS:

4 (about 9 ounces each) lamb leg steaks 1 inch thick
Kosher or sea salt
Freshly ground pepper
1/4 cup Dijon mustard
4 teaspoons fresh rosemary finely minced

INSTRUCTIONS:

Prepare a hot fire in a charcoal grill or preheat a gas grill on high.

Remove the steaks from the refrigerator 20 to 30 minutes before grilling and place them on a large, rimmed baking sheet. Liberally season the steaks on both sides with salt and pepper. In a small bowl, combine the mustard and rosemary. Generously brush the steaks on both sides with the mustard mixture.

Oil the grill grate. Place the steaks directly over the hot fire. Grill the steaks on one side, 4 minutes for rare or 6 minutes for medium-rare. Turn and cook for 4 minutes more, or until an instant-read thermometer registers 120ºF for rare or 130º to 135ºF for medium-rare.

Remove the steaks from the grill and let rest for 5 minutes before serving.

Korean-style grilled short ribs

For those who like to have finger-lickin’ grilled foods to nibble, these beef short ribs, marinated in a Korean-style garlic- and green onion-punctuated soy marinade, are a savory, smoky, and budget-saving treat. Serve accompanied by kimchi, the fiery Korean pickled cabbage, if desired.

YIELD

Serves 4 to 5

INGREDIENTS:

3 to 3 1/2 pounds beef chuck flanken cut 5/8-inch thick across bones)
Marinade
2/3 cup soy sauce
1/3 cup mirin (sweet Japanese rice wine), sake, or dry sherry
1/3 cup unseasoned rice vinegar
1/3 cup packed dark brown sugar
3 tablespoons Asian sesame oil
2 tablespoons (about 7 cloves) garlic finely minced
4 green onions both white and green parts, trimmed and minced
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

INSTRUCTIONS:

In a medium bowl, whisk together the soy sauce, vinegar, sugar, sesame oil, garlic, green onions, and pepper.

Arrange the strips of beef flanken in a 9-by-13-inch non-reactive baking pan or place in a heavy jumbo-sized resealable plastic bag. Pour the marinade over top and turn the meat several times until well coated. Cover the pan or seal the bag and refrigerate for a minimum of 3 hours and up to 8 hours. Remove from the refrigerator 1 hour before grilling.

Prepare a medium-hot fire in a charcoal grill or preheat a gas grill on medium-high.

Remove the ribs from the marinade, drain or blot lightly and place on a rimmed baking sheet. Discard the marinade.

When ready to grill, oil the grill grate. Place the beef strips without crowding directly over the medium-hot fire. Grill, covered, on one side until nicely seared, about 3 minutes. Turn and cook, covered, until seared, 3 to 4 minutes longer. The meat should be lightly charred at the bones and cooked through with no pink. Remove from the grill and serve immediately.

How to cook the perfect steak

Biases prevail here. My husband is from Kansas City, Missouri, where beef is taken seriously and dry-aged, grain-fed beef delivers the best marbling. In fact, many folks drive out of their way to buy beef from McGonigle’s Market in Kansas City (see Sources at the bottom of the recipe). Since we only get to Kansas City once or twice a year, we have our steaks express-shipped to us. This may seem like an extravagant and expensive proposition, but in comparison to the “best” steaks we can buy in the Northwest, there is no competition. I laugh every time I open a box of the steaks, which includes the following directions: “You were sent a really good piece of meat. Your job is to not screw it up!” For me, two critical rules apply for the perfect steak: use only minimal seasonings so as not to mask the flavor of the beef, and never ruin a good steak with steak sauce!

YIELD

Serves 2

INGREDIENTS:

2 (about 12 ounces each) rib-eye or strip steaks 1 inch thick
Kosher or sea salt
Freshly ground pepper
1 tablespoon canola oil
1 tablespoon unsalted butter

INSTRUCTIONS:

Remove the steaks from the refrigerator 20 to 30 minutes before panfrying. Liberally season the steaks on both sides with salt and pepper.

Select a heavy-bottomed frying pan, preferably cast-iron, and large enough to cook the steaks without crowding the pan. Turn on the kitchen exhaust fan and heat the pan over medium-high heat. Add the oil and swirl to coat the pan. Add the butter and swirl the pan so the butter melts without browning. Immediately add the steaks. Do not try to move them for 2 to 2 1/2 minutes; a beautifully caramelized crust will form in that time.

Use tongs or a sturdy metal spatula to turn the steaks. (Never use a meat fork!). Cook on the other side for 2 to 2 1/2 minutes, or until an instant-read thermometer registers 120ºF for rare or 130º to 135ºF for medium-rare.

Remove the steaks from the pan to a warmed platter and let rest for 5 minutes before serving.

Sources
McGonigle’s Market
1307 W 79th Street
Kansas City, MO 64114
888-783-2540
www.mcgonigles.com