Mac and cheese on steroids

Unadulterated mac and cheese in the blue box is okay for kids, but serious munchers are looking for big flavor and crunch. Chunks of salsa, as mild or hot as you like, mingle with the cheesy-coated macaroni, and all is covered with crushed Triscuits and more cheese. Zap this under the broiler for a heaping bowl of bubbly, crisp-crunchy delight.

YIELD

Makes 1 humongo, 2 big, or 4 regular servings

INGREDIENTS:

1 box (7.25 ounces) macaroni and cheese
1/2 cup salsa (see Munchie Tip)
About 40 Triscuits
1 cup (4 ounces) sharp Cheddar cheese shredded

INSTRUCTIONS:

Prepare the macaroni and cheese according to package directions. Stir in the salsa. Spoon into a flameproof 1 1/2-quart baking dish.

Preheat the broiler. While the broiler is preheating, place the crackers in a lock-top plastic bag, squeeze out all the air, and seal the bag. Use a rolling pin or the bottom of a heavy pot to thwack and pound the crackers until finely crushed. You should have about 1 heaping cup. Place the crushed crackers in a bowl and mix in the cheese. Scatter this mixture evenly over the macaroni.

Place under the broiler and broil until bubbly and golden brown, about 3 minutes. Spoon into bowls and serve immediately.

COOKS NOTES

Any kind of salsa will work: tomato, roasted tomato, pico de gallo, tomatillo. Use your favorite.

Acorn Squash Stuffed with Wild Rice, Cranberries, Walnuts, and Hickory-Baked Tofu

This is an adaptation of a recipe given to me by Stephanie Rosenbaum, a San Francisco based food writer. Stephanie is a vegetarian, and this is her favorite Thanksgiving entrée. The festive combination of wild rice with sautéed vegetables, fresh herbs, toasted walnuts, and dried cranberries tastes great and looks pretty on the plate. The addition of hickory-baked tofu adds a rich depth of flavor that complements the wild rice perfectly. I suspect you’ll have your turkey-eating guests asking for samples.

YIELD

Serves 8

INGREDIENTS:

4 acorn or dumpling squash
Freshly ground pepper
Freshly ground nutmeg
4 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 1/2 cups wild rice
1 3/4 cups canned vegetable broth
1/4 teaspoon salt plus extra to taste
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 large (about 12 ounces) yellow onion finely chopped
2 cloves garlic minced
2 large ribs celery finely chopped
1 large carrot peeled and finely chopped
1 tablespoon fresh sage minced
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
1/2 cup fresh parsley minced
1 package (6 ounces) hickory-baked tofu cut into 1/4-inch dice (see Cook’s Note)
3/4 cup chopped walnuts toasted
3/4 cup sweetened dried cranberries

INSTRUCTIONS:

Preheat the oven to 350ºF. Cut each squash in half crosswise. Scoop out and discard the seeds and strings. If necessary, trim the top and bottom so that the squash will sit level, and place on a rimmed baking sheet, cut side up. Sprinkle each half with a little salt, pepper, and nutmeg, to taste. Using 2 tablespoons of the butter, dot each half with some butter. Cover the pan with foil and bake the squash just until moist and tender, about 45 minutes.

Meanwhile, combine the rice, vegetable broth, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 2 cups of water, in a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to a simmer, partially cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the rice is tender, about 40 minutes.

In a 10-inch sauté pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Swirl to coat the pan and sauté the onion, garlic, celery, and carrot until slightly softened, about 3 minutes. Cover the pan, adjust the heat to medium-low, and cook the vegetables until crisp-tender, 5 minutes longer. Add the sage, thyme, and parsley and sauté 1 more minute. Remove from the heat.

In a large bowl, combine the cooked rice, sautéed vegetables, tofu, walnuts, and dried cranberries. Taste and add more salt and pepper, if desired. Mound the rice mixture into the squash halves, dividing it evenly. Cut the remaining 2 tablespoons of butter into small pieces. Dot each stuffed squash with butter. Cover with foil. Bake at 350ºF until heated through, about 20 minutes.

COOKS NOTES

Look for hickory-baked tofu in the refrigerator case of natural food stores.

Bourbon pecan pie with buttermilk whipped cream

Whether you are using Texas or Georgia pecans, this is simply the best pecan pie I have ever tasted. Pecan pies are too often sickeningly sweet. The secret here is brown rice syrup, which is readily available in natural food stores. I happen to think the booze helps, too. Add a little more to the whipped cream if you like.

YIELD

Serves 8 to 10

INGREDIENTS:

Pie Crust

1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour plus extra for dusting
1/2 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
2 teaspoons sugar
4 tablespoons (1/2 stick) unsalted butter ice-cold, cut into small pieces
1/4 cup solid vegetable shortening ice-cold, cut into small pieces
3 tablespoons sour cream
1 tablespoon ice water

Filling

3 large eggs lightly beaten
1 cup brown rice syrup (see Cook’s Note)
3 tablespoons pure maple syrup
2 tablespoons bourbon whiskey
3 tablespoons unsalted butter melted
1/4 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
2 cups pecan halves
1 tablespoon milk
Buttermilk Whipped Cream
1 cup heavy (whipping) cream
1/3 cup buttermilk
2 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar

INSTRUCTIONS:

To make the crust, combine the flour, salt, and sugar in a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Scatter the butter and shortening pieces over the flour mixture and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add the sour cream and water and process for a few seconds, just until a ball of dough begins to form. Do not overprocess. (To make the dough by hand, place the dry ingredients in a large bowl and use a pastry blender or 2 knives to cut the butter and shortening into the flour mixture. Add the sour cream and ice water and mix just until it comes together and forms a mass.)

Transfer the dough to a floured work surface, gathering all the loose bits, and form into a disk about 1 inch thick. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes, o r up to overnight.

Have a 9- or 10-inch pie pan ready. On a lightly floured work surface, roll out the dough into a circle about 12 inches in diameter. Dust the work surface and dough with a little more flour, as necessary, to keep the dough from sticking. Roll the dough around the rolling pin, lift it over the pie pan, and unroll the dough over the pan. Adjust to center the dough, then press it into place. Trim the excess dough, leaving a 1/2-inch overhang; then tuck it under itself to form a double thickness around the edge of the pan. Crimp the edges with a fork, or use your fingers to flute the edges to form a decorative pie crust. Refrigerate the crust while you make the filling. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 400°F.

To make the filling, in a large bowl, combine the eggs, brown rice syrup, maple syrup, bourbon, melted butter, and salt. Whisk until smooth. Fold in the pecans and set aside.

To assemble the pie, pour the pecan filling into the chilled pie shell. Use a pastry brush to brush some of the milk along the edge of the pastry. Place the pie in the oven, and immediately reduce the temperature to 350°F. Bake the pie until the filling just begins to puff at the edges and the center no longer jiggles when gently shaken, about 40 to 45 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack and let cool completely.

To make the topping, in a medium bowl, combine the cream, buttermilk, and confectioners’ sugar. Using a whisk or an electric mixer, whip the cream until soft peaks form. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.

Slice the pie into wedges, top with the buttermilk whipped cream, and serve.

COOKS NOTES

Brown rice syrup is a sweetener. Light brown in color, it is only moderately sweet in comparison with corn syrup. For those with wheat allergies, it has the advantage of being gluten-free. Brown rice syrup is typically sold in glass jars, and is found in the baking section of natural food stores.

Do Ahead

The pie dough can made, wrapped tightly, and frozen up to 3 weeks in advance. Thaw overnight in the refrigerator before rolling it out. The whipped cream can be prepared up to 4 hours in advance. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. The pie is best when baked the day you are planning to serve it.

Old-Fashioned Pumpkin Pie with Pecan Pastry Crust

Pumpkin pie has been around since the Pilgrims’ second Thanksgiving in 1623, and there has been stiff competition out there ever since for the best pumpkin pie recipe. I have baked and sampled many, and this version is my favorite because of the delightful interplay between the smooth custard filling and the nutty flavor and crunch of the crust. You can’t go wrong if you serve this pumpkin pie with rum or maple-flavored whipped cream or simply vanilla ice cream.

YIELD

Makes two 9-inch pies; serves 16 to 20

INGREDIENTS:

Pie Crust

2 1/4 cups all-purpose flour plus extra for dusting
1/2 cup pecans toasted, then finely ground
1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
1 tablespoon sugar
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter ice-cold, cut into small pieces
1/2 cup solid vegetable shortening ice-cold, cut into small pieces
1/3 cup sour cream
2 tablespoons ice water

Filling

3 1/2 cups or 2 cans (15 ounces each) unsweetened pumpkin purée
7 large eggs lightly beaten
2/3 cup unsulphured molasses
1/2 cup sugar
1 tablespoon ground ginger
1 tablespoon ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1/2 teaspoon ground allspice
1/2 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
2 cups sour cream
1 cup heavy (whipping) cream
2 tablespoons milk
Sugar for sprinkling

Topping

1 cup heavy (whipping) cream
2 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar
2 tablespoons dark rum or 1 tablespoon pure maple syrup

INSTRUCTIONS:

To make the crust, combine the flour, pecans, salt, and sugar in a food processor fitted with the metal blade. Scatter the butter and shortening pieces over the flour mixture and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add the sour cream and water and process for a few seconds, just until a ball of dough begins to form. Do not overprocess. (To make the dough by hand, place the dry ingredients in a large bowl, and use a pastry blender or 2 knives to cut the butter and shortening into the flour mixture. Add the sour cream and ice water, and mix just until the dough comes together and forms a mass.)

Transfer the dough to a floured work surface, gathering all the loose bits, and form into a disk about 1 inch thick. Cut the dough into 2 pieces, wrap each piece in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes, or up to overnight.

Have two 9-inch pie pans ready. On a lightly floured work surface, roll out 1 piece of the dough into a circle about 12 inches in diameter. Dust the work surface and dough with a little more flour, as necessary, to keep the dough from sticking. Roll the dough around the rolling pin, lift it over the pie pan, and unroll the dough over the pan. Adjust to center the dough, then press it into place. Trim the excess dough by running a knife around the edge of the pan. Set it aside, leaving it rolled out. Repeat with the second piece of dough. Refrigerate the pie crusts while you make the decorative edge pieces.

Use a 1 1/4-inch decorative cookie cutter (such as a leaf, daisy, or star shape) to make cutouts from the dough trimmings. Reroll the scraps to make more cutouts. You should have about 30 to 35 dough shapes per pie. Place in a single layer on a nonstick baking sheet and refrigerate.

To make the filling, in a large bowl, combine the pumpkin, eggs, molasses, sugar, ginger, cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, salt, and pepper. Whisk until smooth. Blend in the sour cream and heavy cream. Whisk until smooth and no white streaks are visible. Set aside.

To assemble the pies, position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F. Divide the pumpkin filling between the chilled pie shells. Use a pastry brush to brush milk on the edges of the pastry. Overlap the decorative cutouts around the edge of the pastry, pressing gently. There should be enough to circle each pan. Brush with milk and sprinkle with sugar. Bake the pies until the filling just begins to puff at the edges and the center no longer jiggles when gently shaken, about 40 minutes. Turn off the oven and leave the pies, undisturbed, in the oven with the door ajar, for 20 minutes. Transfer the pies to wire racks and let cool completely.

Meanwhile, make the topping: In a medium bowl, combine the cream, confectioners’ sugar, and rum. Using a whisk or electric mixer, whip the cream until soft peaks form. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.

Slice the pies into wedges, top with whipped cream, and serve.

COOKS NOTES

If you prefer to crimp the edges of the pumpkin pies rather than make decorative cutouts, instead of trimming the pastry to the edge of the pan, leave about 1 inch of overhang dough. Turn it under and crimp the edges to make a decorative border.

Do Ahead

The pie dough can made, wrapped tightly, and frozen up to 3 weeks in advance. Thaw overnight in the refrigerator before rolling it out. The filling can be made up to 1 day in advance. Place in a covered container and refrigerate. The whipped cream can be prepared up to 4 hours in advance. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. The pie is best when baked the day you are planning to serve it.

Turkey Stock

This is the simplest way I know to make a rich turkey stock, utilizing the turkey neck, tail, gizzard, and heart found inside of the neck cavity of the turkey. (I never use the liver, also found in the packet of giblets, for making stock, because it gives the stock a bitter flavor. Sometimes, I cook the liver separately, chop it, and add it to my stuffing, or I serve it in small quantities to a four-legged friend.

To make a bigger batch of stock that you can cook well in advance of the holidays and freeze, use approximately 5 pounds of turkey wings, thighs, or drumsticks in place of the giblets and turkey neck listed in this recipe and double the quantities of the rest of the ingredients. Brown the turkey parts in a roasting pan in a preheated 400°F oven for 1 1/2 hours, then transfer them to a stockpot and proceed with the recipe, starting after the browning step.

YIELD

Makes about 3 cups

INGREDIENTS:

2 tablespoons canola oil
Turkey neck, tail, gizzard, and heart
1 yellow onion root end trimmed but peel left intact, quartered
1 large carrot scrubbed but not peeled, cut into 2-inch chunks
1 large rib celery including leafy tops, trimmed and cut into 2-inch lengths
2 sprigs fresh thyme
4 sprigs resh parsley
1 bay leaf
6 black peppercorns
2 cups canned low-sodium chicken broth
5 cups cold water

INSTRUCTIONS:

In a large saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the turkey neck, tail, gizzard, and heart and sauté until browned on all sides, 5 to 7 minutes. Add the onion, carrot, celery, thyme, parsley, bay leaf, peppercorns, chicken broth, and water to the pan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce the heat to low. Skim any brown foam that rises to the top. Simmer the stock until it reduces by half, about 1 hour. Pour the stock through a fine-mesh sieve set over a bowl or 4-cup glass measure. Set aside the neck, gizzard, and heart until cool enough to handle. Discard the rest of the solids. Let the stock cool completely. Skim off any fat that rises to the top. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use. (When you’re ready to make gravy, skim the fat from the top of the stock again, if necessary.)

If making giblet gravy, shred the meat from the neck and finely dice the gizzard and heart. Cover and refrigerate until you are ready to use. (Some cooks prefer to make a smooth gravy and add the diced gizzard and heart to their stuff.

Barbecued turkey with an apple cider brine

This grill recipe uses a technique called “indirect cooking” or “indirect grilling.” This simply means that the food is not set directly over the coals or burners as it cooks in a covered grill. Essentially, this is grill roasting-heat rises and reflects off the lid and sides of the grill, circulating the heat. Indirect grilling is used for long, slow cooking; it is the best method for barbecuing whole chickens, roasts, ribs, and turkeys. The directions are for a gas grill with more than one burner, or a charcoal-burning, kettle-style grill with a vented lid.

 

YIELD

Makes about 3 cups

INGREDIENTS:

1 (12 to 16 pounds) Brined Turkey made with Apple Cider Brine
about 1/2 cup Olive oil for brushing turkey

Giblet Gravy (optional)

2 tablespoons vegetable oil
Turkey giblets (neck, tail, gizzard, liver, and heart)
1 small yellow onion (do not peel), quartered
1 medium carrot (do not peel), cut into 2-inch chunks
2 sprigs fresh thyme
4 sprigs fresh parsley
1 bay leaf
6 black peppercorns
2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
Salt and freshly ground pepper

INSTRUCTIONS:

Special Equipment
Kitchen twine
Sturdy, V-shaped roasting rack
Heavy-gauge, disposable foil roasting pan (large enough to hold the roasting rack)
6 to 8 cups hickory chips
Heavy-duty aluminum foil or a disposable aluminum pie plate

One hour before you are ready to grill, place the hickory chips in a large bowl, cover with cold water, and soak. In the meantime, secure the legs with a 1-foot length of kitchen twine by bringing the legs together, wrapping the string around the ends (knobs) of the legs, and then tying the string with a knot. Trim any extra length of string. Rub or lightly brush the turkey with olive oil. Place the bird, breast side down, on the roasting rack, and set it inside the disposable roasting pan. Drain the soaking hickory chips. Make 3 aluminum foil pouches or use 1 disposable foil pie plate. (Skip this step if your gas grill has a smoker box, and follow the manufacturer’s instructions for using wood chips.) To make the pouches, cut three 16-inch-long pieces of heavy-duty foil. Fold each in half to make a pouch about 8 inches long, and fill with one-third of the wood chips. Crimp the edges together to seal, and then poke holes in the top of the pouch. If using a small disposable foil pie plate, fill it with one-third of the chips. (The pie plate will be refilled twice as the chips burn down.)
For a charcoal grill: Forty-five minutes prior to grilling, prepare a hardwood charcoal or charcoal briquette fire. When the coals are covered with a gray ash, mound them on one side of the grill. Place 1 pouch or the pie plate of wood chips directly on the coals. Place the roasting pan on the cooking grate near, but not over, the coals. Close the grill lid.
For a gas grill: Twenty minutes prior to grilling, preheat the grill with all burners on high. Turn off the burner directly below where the turkey will set, and adjust the other burner(s) to medium-high. Place drained wood chips in the smoker box, or place 1 pouch or the pie plate of wood chips directly on the heat source. Place the roasting pan on the cooking grate on the side of the gas grill that has been turned off. Close the grill lid.
Grill-roast the turkey for 1 hour. Open the grill lid. Add more wood chips if needed. With a wad of paper towels in each hand, turn the turkey, breast side up, and arrange it so the leg and wing facing the fire are now facing away from it. Continue cooking, with the lid closed, for another 45 minutes. While the turkey is grill-roasting, begin the optional gravy.
Check the wood chips and add more, if needed. Turn the turkey once again so the leg and wing facing the fire are now facing away from it. Continue cooking, with the lid closed, for another 45 minutes. Using an instant-read thermometer, check the internal temperature of the turkey by placing the thermometer into the thickest part of the thigh. Check both thighs. When the thermometer registers 165ºF the turkey is done. When the turkey is done, transfer it to a carving board or serving platter, and cover the breast loosely with aluminum foil. Allow the turkey to rest for 15 to 30 minutes before carving to let the juices set. While the turkey rests, finish making the gravy
Carve the turkey. Serve accompanied with the sauceboat of gravy or barbecue sauce.

Giblet Gravy

Begin the gravy by first making a turkey stock. In a medium saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Sauté the giblets until brown on all sides, about 5 minutes. Remove the liver and cool for 10 minutes; then cover and refrigerate. Add the onion, carrot, thyme, parsley, bay leaf, peppercorns, and 6 cups of cold water to the pan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, and then turn the heat to low. Skim any brown foam that rises to the top. Simmer the stock, until it reduces by half, about 1 hour. Pour the stock through a fine-mesh strainer set over a small bowl or 4-cup glass measure. Set aside the neck, gizzard, and heart until cool enough to handle. Discard the rest of the solids. Set the stock aside, and when the fat rises to the top, skim it. Shred the meat from the neck and add to the stock. Finely dice the gizzard, heart, and reserved liver, and add to the stock. Transfer to a small saucepan and set aside.

Bring the stock and chopped giblets to a simmer over medium heat. Place the flour in a 1-cup measure, add a small amount of simmering liquid, and blend until smooth. Slowly pour this into the gravy and whisk until thickened, about 3 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Transfer to a small bowl or sauceboat when ready to serve.

Sweet potato puree with pecan streusel

A casserole of candied yams or sweet potatoes with marshmallow topping is traditional on many Thanksgiving tables, but I wanted to give this classic accompaniment an updated twist, so I have made it with a pecan streusel topping. For years, I have taught Thanksgiving classes around the country, and every time I demonstrate this recipe and the students sample the dish, they tell me these sweet potatoes are the best they have ever tasted. They are lightened with eggs and enriched with butter and brown sugar—but the pecan streusel topping is what makes this casserole divine. Hot from the oven, the meltingly lush topping is browned to a caramelized crisp at the edges.

YIELD

Serves 10

INGREDIENTS:

5 pounds dark-orange-fleshed sweet potatoes scrubbed
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter
3/4 cup firmly packed dark brown sugar
3/4 cup milk warmed
3 large eggs lightly beaten
Streusel Topping
3/4 cup pecans coarsely finely chopped
1/2 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 cup firmly packed dark brown sugar
3/4 teaspoon cinnamon ground
1/2 teaspoon nutmeg freshly grated
1/2 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter melted
1/2 cup heavy (whipping) cream

INSTRUCTIONS:

Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat to 350°F. Pierce each potato several times with a fork and place them in a baking pan. Bake until very tender when pierced with a fork, 1 1/4 to 1 1/2 hours. Set aside until cool enough to handle. Leave the oven on.
In a small saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the brown sugar and Cook, stirring, until the sugar is dissolved and the mixture is bubbly hot. Set aside. Cut the potatoes in half, scoop the flesh into a large bowl, and discard the skins. Mash with a potato masher, or pass the potatoes through a ricer or food mill held over a bowl. Stir the butter mixture into the mashed potatoes. Add the milk and stir until incorporated. Whisk in the eggs until well combined.

Butter a 3-quart oval gratin dish or an 11-inch round oven-to-table casserole. Spread the sweet potato mixture evenly in the casserole. Set aside while making the topping. Raise the oven temperature to 375°F.

To make the streusel topping, in a bowl, combine the pecans, flour, sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, and salt. Stir in the melted butter and cream. Spread the streusel topping evenly over the sweet potatoes.

Bake until the potatoes are hot throughout and the topping is nicely browned and crisp, about 40 minutes. Serve immediately.

Do Ahead

The whipped sweet potatoes and the topping can be made up to 1 day in advance. Cover and refrigerate in separate containers. Remove the potatoes and topping 2 hours before you plan to bake the casserole. Warm the topping and spread it over the potatoes just before baking.

Sautéed beet greens

It’s like getting a bonus prize, a twofer, when you buy fresh beets with their lovely beet greens attached. Not only do you have the rosy subterranean beauties, the beetroots, to enjoy, but you have the striking green tops with their bold red veins to savor as well. I find the simplicity of a simple sauté the best way to cook these greens.

YIELD

Serves 2

INGREDIENTS:

1 bunch (about 4 beets) beets including the bushy fresh-looking green tops
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 large clove garlic thinly sliced
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
Kosher or sea salt
Freshly ground pepper

INSTRUCTIONS:

Trim off the beet greens leaving 1 inch of stem attached to the beetroot. Reserve the beetroots for another use. Trim and discard the thick, fibrous stems from the greens and remove any wilted or spotted leaves. Stack the greens on top of one another and slice down the middle through the center vein. Chop the greens into large pieces, about 2-by-3 inches wide. Rinse the greens in several changes of cold water until the greens are clean and the water is clear. Dry using a salad spinner or place the greens on paper towels and blot dry.

In a 12-inch sauté pan, heat the oil over medium heat and swirl to coat the pan. Add the garlic and sauté until soft but not brown, about 1 minute. Add the greens. Using tongs, toss the greens until wilted but still crisp-tender and bright green, about 3 minutes. Add the lemon juice, season lightly with salt and pepper, and then give the greens a final toss in the pan. Serve immediately.