Roasted beets

There are several reasons I prefer to roast beets rather than boil or steam them: for one, roasting is the best method for retaining the bright color and natural sweet flavor of the beets; boiling and steaming leeches more vitamins from the beets; roasting is an easy and foolproof method that doesn’t require keeping an eye on the water level in the pot or steamer; and, best of all, roasting doesn’t make a mess.

YIELD

Serves 4 as a side dish

INGREDIENTS:

1 pound beets uniformly-sized (red, golden, Chioggia, or any other variety)
Sprigs of fresh thyme
Extra-virgin olive oil
Kosher or sea salt
Freshly ground pepper

INSTRUCTIONS:

Position a rack in the center of the oven. Preheat oven to 350°F.

Gently scrub the beets under cool running water to remove any dirt from the skins. Pat dry. Place each beet in the center of a square of foil with one sprig of thyme. Drizzle a little olive oil over each beet and roll it around until lightly coated. Sprinkle the beets evenly with a large pinch of salt and a small pinch of pepper. Wrap each beet tightly in the foil. Arrange the beets on a rimmed baking sheet without touching. Roast the beets until tender, about 1 to 1 1/2 hours, depending on the size of the beets. The beets are done when a paring knife easily pierces each beet when inserted into the center. (If the beets are not uniformly sized, remove the smaller beets from the oven when tender and continue to roast the larger beets until done.) Remove the pan from the oven and place on a wire rack to cool. (If not using the beets right away, leave them wrapped in the foil and refrigerate for up to 5 days.)

When the beets are cool enough to handle, unwrap them from the foil and discard the thyme. Wearing disposable gloves, use a paring knife to trim the stem and root ends. Using paper towels, rub the skins to remove the peel. At this point, the beets can be cut into slices or wedges and served as a side dish or they can be cooled completely and used in recipes calling for roasted beets.

Roasted carrots and parsnips with fresh dill

Here’s one vegetable dish that doesn’t need any last minute attention from the busy Christmas cook—and I consider that a gift. Tossed roasted carrots and parsnips flavored with fresh dill are a colorful addition to the holiday buffet and complement beef, turkey, goose, lamb, and even ham. Parsnips are such an underused winter root vegetable, yet once tasted it is always a surprise how sweet and complex this vegetable tastes. Look for medium-sized, well-shaped parsnips that are firm. Avoid ones that are limp or spotted. Store them wrapped in paper towels inside a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to two weeks. They are also terrific combined with potatoes for a pureed winter soup.

YIELD

Serves 8 to 10

INGREDIENTS:

7 medium (about 2 1/2 pounds) parsnips peeled, trimmed, and cut into 3-inch-by-1/2-inch sticks
1 1/2 pounds tender carrots peeled, trimmed, and cut into 3-inch-by-1/2-inch sticks
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons fresh dill chopped
1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper
2 teaspoons kosher or sea salt

Here’s one vegetable dish that doesn’t need any last minute attention from the busy Christmas cook—and I consider that a gift. Tossed roasted carrots and parsnips flavored with fresh dill are a colorful addition to the holiday buffet and complement beef, turkey, goose, lamb, and even ham. Parsnips are such an underused winter root vegetable, yet once tasted it is always a surprise how sweet and complex this vegetable tastes. Look for medium-sized, well-shaped parsnips that are firm. Avoid ones that are limp or spotted. Store them wrapped in paper towels inside a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to two weeks. They are also terrific combined with potatoes for a pureed winter soup.

INSTRUCTIONS:

Preheat the oven to 400°F.

In a large roasting pan or 9-by-13-inch baking dish, toss the parsnips and carrots with the olive oil, dill, pepper, and salt. Roast, uncovered, stirring once or twice, until the vegetables are tender when pierced with a knife and lightly caramelized in spots, about 45 minutes. Serve immediately, or cover and keep warm for up to 1 hour.

Mushrooms sautéed with onions and herbs with pesto oil

If using the common domestic mushrooms–either the white button varieties or the brown cremini mushrooms–look for tightly closed caps and no soft spots. If using wild or more exotic mushrooms such as, chanterelle, morel, oyster, or shiitake, look for plump (as opposed to shriveled) tops and fresh-looking edges. Brown spots or mold will develop on wild mushrooms that are too old; avoid those. Store mushrooms loosely wrapped in paper towels, loosely stored in a plastic bag in the refrigerator. Plan to use mushrooms within two days of purchase. Basic Preparation. Wipe mushrooms clean with a damp paper towel. Mushrooms act like sponges absorbing water, so washing mushrooms under running water will result in a diluted, watery taste. Using a sharp paring knife, trim the ends of the stem and any ragged edges of the cap. Dice, slice, or leave mushrooms whole, according to the recipe directions.

YIELD

Serves 4 or 5

INGREDIENTS:

1 tablespoon chopped fresh sage
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
2 tablespoons fresh parsley minced
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 pound large, fresh domestic or wild mushrooms cleaned, trimmed, and sliced
1 medium-size (about 8 ounces) yellow onion peeled and cut into thin wedges
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons pale dry sherry

INSTRUCTIONS:

In a small bowl, combine sage, thyme, and parsley and set aside. Heat a large frying pan over high heat. Add olive oil and butter. When hot, add mushrooms and onions. Sauté, stirring frequently, until tender and lightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Add fresh herbs, then add salt, pepper, and sherry; stir to combine. Serve immediately in a warmed bowl or on warmed plates.

COOKS NOTES

This recipe is best if cooked right before serving. However, the ingredients can be prepared in advance. Mushrooms can be prepared up to 2 hours ahead, sprinkled with a little lemon juice, and covered with a damp paper towel. Sautéed mushrooms are a wonderful accompaniment to roasted poultry and meats. This recipe is at its best when fresh herbs are used. If fresh sage and thyme are unavailable, use 1 teaspoon each dried sage and thyme mixed with the sherry to bring out more of the herbs’ flavors. Substitute red onion or sweet onions (Vidalia, or Walla Walla) when in season. Toss this mixture with cooked fettuccine (3/4 to 1 pound), adding a little of the pasta cooking water and 1/2 cup of cream (optional), for a meatless entree or side dish. Use any leftovers as the filling in an omelet.

Mixed grill of zucchini and yellow summer squash with pesto oil

I tend to overbuy when the farmers’ market is brimming with summer vegetables, especially all the delicate summer squashes. I especially can’t resist the cute pattypans. For an attractive presentation, I slice the zucchini and yellow crookneck, straight neck, or cocozelle squashes on the diagonal, and cut the pattypan squashes horizontally so the slices look like flowers. Use this recipe as a guideline and mix and match whatever summer squashes look freshest in the market.

YIELD

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS:

2 tablespoons basil pesto homemade or store-bought
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil plus more for brushing
3 pattypan or other yellow summer squashes ends trimmed and cut into thick slices (see headnote)
3 zucchini ends trimmed and cut on the diagonal into thick slices
Kosher or sea salt
Freshly ground pepper

INSTRUCTIONS:

Prepare a hot fire in a charcoal grill or preheat a gas grill on high.

In a small bowl, combine the pesto and 3 tablespoons olive oil and mix well. Set aside.

Arrange the squash slices in a single layer on a large, rimmed baking sheet and brush generously on both sides with olive oil. Season with salt and pepper.

Oil the grill grate. Place the squash slices directly over the hot fire and grill, turning once, until dark brown grill marks appear and the slices are crisp-tender, 4 to 5 minutes.

Arrange the squash slices, overlapping them, on a warmed platter and drizzle the pesto oil over the top. Serve immediately.

Minnesota wild rice dressing with dried fruits

Long considered the “caviar of grains,” wild rice is native to North American, and isn’t really a rice at all. The grains are long, slender, and black, with a unique nutty, almost smoky, flavor. They come from a reed-like aquatic plant that not long ago was only found in the wild, but is now naturally cultivated. Local Indians still gather wild rice by paddling in canoes through the rice beds of Minnesota. Wild rice also grows in the southern states of the United States as well as rural mountain valleys of Northern California. Wild rice pairs beautifully with game birds, chicken, and a holiday turkey. I like to serve this separately, but it is equally delicious stuffed in the bird.

YIELD

Serves 8 to 10

INGREDIENTS:

2 cups wild rice
2 cups homemade chicken stock or canned low-sodium chicken broth
1/2 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
1/2 cup pine nuts
3/4 cup dried apricots quartered
5 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 large ribs celery finely chopped
2 large carrots peeled and finely chopped
1 yellow onion finely chopped
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
1 tablespoon fresh sage minced
1/2 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley minced
1/2 cup sweetened dried cranberries
Freshly ground pepper

INSTRUCTIONS:

"In a medium saucepan, combine the rice, chicken stock, and 1/4 teaspoon of the salt, and add 2 cups of water. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to a simmer, partially cover, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the rice is tender, about 40 minutes. (Not all of the liquid will be absorbed.)
Meanwhile, place a small, heavy skillet over medium-high heat. When it is hot, but not smoking, add the pine nuts. Stirring constantly, toast them until nicely browned, about 3 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a plate and set aside to cool.

Place the dried apricots in a small bowl, add hot water to cover, and allow to plump for 20 minutes. Drain and reserve.

In a 10-inch sauté pan over medium-high heat, melt 4 tablespoons of the butter. Swirl to coat the pan and sauté the celery, carrot, and onion until soft and lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add the thyme, sage, and parsley and sauté 1 minute longer. Remove from the heat.

Preheat the oven to 350ºF. When the rice is tender, add the sautéed vegetable mixture to the rice. Add the reserved pine nuts, apricots, and dried cranberries. Stir to combine. Add the remaining 1/4 teaspoon of salt, and a few grinds of pepper. Taste and adjust the seasonings.

Use the remaining 1 tablespoon of butter to grease an oven-to-table casserole dish. Spoon the rice mixture into the prepared pan and cover. Twenty minutes before serving, bake the wild rice until heated through.

Do Ahead

The stuffing can be made up to 1 day in advance. Refrigerate, covered, and bring to room temperature 1 hour before baking. Increase the baking time to 40 minutes to insure it’s heated through."

Mashed potatoes

I’m willing to bet that mashed potatoes are on your list of comfort foods. The rich and creamy decadence of potatoes mixed with milk and butter is hard to beat. My recipe has been fine-tuned over the years. For ease, I used to melt the butter into the hot milk before blending with the potatoes; but then I realized when I added the butter first, and completely incorporated it into the dry potatoes, the finished product had a more buttery flavor.

YIELD

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS:

2 to 3 large (8 to 10 ounces each) russet potatoes
1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt plus extra for seasoning
1/2 stick (4 tablespoons) unsalted butter
1/2 to 2/3 cup milk
Freshly ground black pepper to taste

INSTRUCTIONS:

Peel and rinse the potatoes under cold water. Cut each into 4 or 5 large chunks and place in a 3- to 4-quart saucepan. Cover with cold water, partially cover the pot, and bring the water to a boil over high heat. When the water reaches a boil, uncover, add 1 teaspoon of salt, and reduce heat so the water boils gently. Cook until potato chunks feel tender but not mushy when pierced with a fork, 10 to 12 minutes. Do not cook until they are soft and mushy or they will be watery and might even start to disintegrate in the water!

Meanwhile, melt the butter. Heat the milk in a small saucepan until hot but not boiling.

Drain potatoes and place back in the warm pan over low heat for 1 to 2 minutes to evaporate excess water. Remove from heat and mash potatoes in the pan using a masher, ricer, food mill, or even a well-constructed wire whisk. Blend the melted butter mixture into potatoes. Stir the milk into the potatoes, a bit at a time, until they are as soft and moist as you like. Add salt and pepper to taste.

COOKS NOTES

To avoid last minute chaos in the kitchen, know that it works perfectly well to cook and mash potatoes up to 1 hour in advance. They can be kept warm in the top of a double boiler set over simmering water, or reheated in a microwave oven just before serving. If you use the do-ahead plan, be sure to add an extra pat of butter, or two.

Lisa Morrison’s cranbeer-y relish

Once a year I teach a six-week food writing course in Portland, Oregon where I live. I was teaching the course while writing this book and Lisa Morrison was one of my talented students. When she heard about the book she offered to give me her favorite recipe for cranberry relish which included using a twelve-ounce bottle of framboise Lambic, a Belgian framboise beer. Needless to say I was skeptical, but Lisa writes extensively about beer for many publications and is known as the beer goddess. It was worth a try. The recipe worked perfectly and it is terrific. An obvious side dish to serve with turkey or goose, it also pairs deliciously with the Salt and garlic Crusted Prime Rib of Beef.

YIELD

Makes 2 1/4 cups Serves 10

INGREDIENTS:

1 (12 ounce) bottle Lindemans’s Framboise Lambic beer
1 (12 ounce) package resh or frozen cranberries
1/4 cup crystallized ginger finely diced(see Cook’s Note)
1/4 cup sugar

INSTRUCTIONS:

In a deep 4-quart saucepan over medium-high heat, bring the beer to a boil. Add the cranberries, ginger, and sugar. Adjust the heat so the mixture simmers and stir to dissolve the sugar. Cook, stirring occasionally, until the cranberries begin to pop open, about 10 minutes. Remove from the heat and cool to room temperature. Refrigerate in a covered jar or container until ready to serve. (The cranberry relish can be made up to 10 days in advance.)

Italian sausage, mushroom, and sage stuffing

Some are just “ho-hum, nothing-special” stuffings, but not this one. The sausage is key here. Where I live, several local butcher shops make their own savory and richly flavored link sausages and those are what I buy. Look in your area for artisan sausage makers.
Once the sausages have cooked, I sauté the mushrooms in some of the flavorful fat. The browned bits of sausage clinging to the sides of the pan mix with the mushrooms, so that all these tasty morsels go into the stuffing. With the addition of sautéed vegetables and fresh herbs, this is bliss to a stuffing lover.

YIELD

Serves 12

INGREDIENTS:

5 tablespoon unsalted butter softened
10 cups unseasoned dry bread cubes (see Cook’s Note)
1 tablespoon olive oil
3/4 pound mild Italian sausages
1 pound cremini mushrooms wiped or brushed clean, stems trimmed, and quartered
1 large (about 12 ounces) yellow onion chopped
2 large carrots peeled and chopped
2 large ribs celery chopped
1/2 cup fresh parsley minced
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
1 tablespoon fresh sage minced
1 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground pepper
3 large eggs lightly beaten
4 cups homemade chicken stock or canned low-sodium chicken broth

INSTRUCTIONS:

Preheat the oven to 350ºF. Coat a deep, 9-by-13-inch baking pan with 1 tablespoon of the butter. Place the bread cubes in a very large mixing bowl. In 10-inch sauté pan, heat the oil over medium-high heat, and swirl to coat the pan. Cook the sausages until nicely browned on all sides. Remove and let cool. Drain all but 3 tablespoons of the fat. Add the mushrooms to the pan and sauté, stirring frequently, until lightly browned, about 4 minutes. Add to the bread in the bowl.

Return the pan to the heat, and add the remaining 4 tablespoons of butter. Swirl to coat the pan, and add the onion, carrots, and celery. Sauté, stirring frequently, until soft and lightly browned, about 5 minutes. Add the parsley, thyme, sage, salt, and a few grinds of pepper, and sauté 1 minute longer. Add this mixture to the bread cubes, and stir to combine.

Cut the reserved sausages into ¼-inch rounds and add to the stuffing. Add the beaten eggs and stock to the bowl, and mix well. Place the stuffing in the prepared pan and bake, uncovered, until the top is lightly browned and crusty, about 1 hour.

If you have room in your oven, bake the stuffing while the turkey is roasting. Otherwise, bake it beforehand and reheat it once the turkey is out.

COOKS NOTES

Making your own bread cubes is a small, easy task with delicious results. There is just no comparison between homemade bread cubes and the cello-packaged ones available in supermarkets. I usually prepare mine a day or two before Thanksgiving. Buy a loaf of artisan or peasant-style bread, trim the crusts, cut the bread into ½-inch cubes, and spread them out on baking sheets. Toast the cubes in a 400ºF oven until just beginning to brown, about 10 minutes. Cool completely and store in a covered container until ready to use. Artisan bakeries are springing up in every city and town around the country. Check out their breads, and use them for these bread stuffing recipes. However, if you are short on time, the bakeries often sell toasted bread cubes made from their day-old loaves, especially at Thanksgiving time.