Shaved fennel, lemon, and arugula salad, with pan-seared salmon

I’ve paired salmon and fennel several times in this book and there is a reason for it: They make a gorgeous marriage of taste, texture, and color. Here the fennel is thinly sliced, partnered with peppery arugula, and tossed with a lemon vinaigrette. A quickly pan-seared salmon fillet sits on top of a mound of this slawlike salad. A quick garnish with fennel fronds and you have a main-course salad worthy of company, yet simple and easy enough for a family meal.

Suggested wine:
Champagne
domestic sparkling wine
Rhône white

YIELD

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS:

Vinaigrette
1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 clove garlic minced
1/2 teaspoon sugar
3/4 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
Freshly ground pepper
3 cups fennel bulb thinly sliced(fronds reserved)
2 bunches (about 1/2 pound total) arugula stemmed
4 (about 5 ounces each) salmon fillets skin on and scaled, pin bones removed, skin dried by wiping with a knife (see pages 30-33)
Kosher or sea salt
Freshly ground pepper
3 tablespoons olive oil for sautéing

INSTRUCTIONS:

To make the vinaigrette: In a small jar with a tight-fitting lid, combine the extra-virgin olive oil, lemon zest and juice, garlic, sugar, salt, and lots of pepper. (Several good grinds of pepper make the vinaigrette taste robust, a perfect complement to the fennel.) Cover tightly and shake vigorously to blend. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Set aside.
Chop the fennel fronds and measure out 1/3 cup. In a large bowl, combine the fennel, 1/4 cup of the fennel fronds (saving the rest for garnish), and the arugula. Toss lightly to mix and set aside.
Season the salmon on all sides with a little salt and pepper. Place a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat. When the skillet is hot, add the 3 tablespoons of olive oil and swirl to coat the pan. Add the salmon, skin side down, and cook until the skin is crisp, about 4 minutes. Carefully turn the salmon and cook until the fillets are almost opaque throughout, but still very moist, or an instant-read thermometer inserted in the center registers 125º to 130ºF, about 4 minutes. Transfer to a warm plate and set aside while you toss the salad.
Shake the dressing vigorously again and then toss the salad with it. Arrange the salad on 4 dinner plates. Place a salmon fillet in the center, on top of the salad, garnish with the remaining fennel fronds, and serve immediately.

Forget caesar: a bang-up cleopatra salad

Forget Caesar: A bang-up Cleopatra salad The classic the way it was meant to be-garlic fragrant, anchovy sly, and elegantly adorned with a pyramid of sliced lemon-grilled chicken.

YIELD

Serves 6

INGREDIENTS:

Marinade
1/3 cup olive oil
1 1/2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
Freshly ground pepper
1 large clove garlic minced
6 boneless, skinless chicken breasts

Dressing

1 tablespoon minced garlic
2 oil-packed anchovy fillets patted dry and minced, or 1 tablespoon anchovy paste
3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 large egg very fresh
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 cup freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese plus extra for garnish
3 heads romaine lettuce well chilled
Vegetable oil for brushing
1 1/2 cups homemade or store-bought large croutons
Freshly ground pepper

INSTRUCTIONS:

To make the marinade: In a small bowl, whisk together all the marinade ingredients. Place the chicken in a baking dish. Add the marinade. Set aside for 30 minutes at room temperature.
To make the dressing: In a small bowl whisk together the garlic, anchovies, salt, and lemon juice. Add the egg, whisking the dressing until thick, about 1 minute. Slowly drizzle in the oil, whisking vigorously to thicken. Whisk in the cheese. Taste and adjust the flavor. Set aside.
Separate the romaine leaves, discarding the coarse outer leaves and saving the inner leaves and hearts. Keep the leaves whole.
Prepare a hot fire in a charcoal grill or preheat a gas or electric grill on high. Brush the grill grate with vegetable oil. Place the chicken breasts directly over the hot fire. Cover the grill and cook the chicken on one side, about 4 minutes. Turn and cover again. Cook about 4 more minutes, or until the juices run clear when pierced with a knife, or an instant-read thermometer registers 165ºF. Set aside.
To assemble: Pour half of the dressing in the bottom of an oversized mixing bowl. Add the croutons and toss in the dressing until thoroughly coated. Add the lettuce leaves and hearts, and the remaining dressing. Toss just until coated. Divide among 6 entrée plates. Thinly slice the chicken breasts and arrange pyramid-style over the top. Garnish with additional cheese and freshly ground pepper. Serve immediately. This is finger food-meant to be eaten royally, one leaf at a time.

COOKS NOTES

If you prefer to avoid raw eggs, substitute 1 additional tablespoon of olive oil in place of the egg.

Butter lettuce salad with persimmons and pomegranate

For me, persimmons and pomegranates are two treasured fruits of winter. There is only a short gap between the luscious September tomatoes I love to add to salads and the crisp, sweetly acidic persimmons I use as their cold-weather substitute. Use the squat, tomato-shaped Fuyu persimmon for this salad. The skins should be orange-red, smooth, and shiny, and the flesh should feel firm to the touch, but not rock hard. The Hachiya persimmon, with pointy-tipped bottom is not the right variety of persimmon for salads.

YIELD

Serves 10

INGREDIENTS:

Dressing
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/3 cup (from about 1 orange) fresh orange juice
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
2 teaspoons sugar
3/4 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
Freshly ground pepper
2 tablespoons snipped fresh chives
2 tablespoons fresh flat-leaf parsley minced
12 cups (about 3 heads) whole butter lettuce leaves (see Cook’s Note)
1 medium firm and shiny pomegranate unblemished
3 ripe Fuyu persimmons cored, halved, and cut into 1/4-inch wedges

INSTRUCTIONS:

To make the dressing, in a small jar with a tight-fitting lid, combine the olive oil, orange juice, lemon juice, sugar, salt, and pepper to taste. Add the chives and parsley. Cover tightly and shake vigorously to blend. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Set aside.
Rinse the lettuce leaves and dry them in a salad spinner or pat dry with paper towels. Place the lettuce in a large bowl, cover with a slightly damp kitchen towel, and set aside until ready to serve.
To extract the seeds from the pomegranate, I suggest you wear an apron and disposable surgical gloves because the juice stains both hands and clothing. To remove the seeds, place a bowl of cool water in the sink. Cut off the crown of the pomegranate with a stainless-steel knife (a carbon-steel knife can turn the juice bitter) and scoop out some of the center membrane, or pith, with a spoon. Use the knife to score the skin into quarters, and then cut through enough of the membrane to see the seeds. Submerge the pomegranate in the water and break apart the quarters with your thumbs. Use your fingers to peel away the white membrane and pop out the seeds. The seeds will sink to the bottom of the bowl and the membrane will float to the top. Discard the membrane. Drain the seeds and spread them on a double thickness of paper towels to absorb the excess moisture. Set aside until ready to use.
To assemble the salad, add the persimmon wedges to the bowl of lettuce. Give the dressing a last-minute shake, pour over the salad, and toss well. Divide among individual salad plates and garnish each salad with as many pomegranate seeds as desired. (Save any remaining pomegranate seeds for another use.) Serve immediately.

COOKS NOTES

I like to keep the butter lettuce leaves whole for an attractive presentation. You certainly can tear them into bite-sized pieces if you prefer. If butter lettuce is unavailable, use green or red leaf lettuce or a mixture of the two. In any case, be sure the lettuce is dried well; the dressing does not adhere to wet lettuce.
The dressing can be made up to 1 day in advance, covered tightly, and refrigerated. Remove from the refrigerator 2 hours before serving. The pomegranate can be prepared up to 1 day in advance. Place in a covered container and refrigerate. Remove from the refrigerator 2 hours before serving.

 

Asparagus salad with shaved watermelon radishes, castelvetrano olives, and shaved perrydale cheese

Beauty isn’t the only thing this salad brings to the table—it is a mosaic of complementary textures and fresh spring flavors. I found magenta-centered watermelon radishes at Food Front coop in Northwest Portland, but if you can’t track them down substitute another radish variety. Castelvetranos are big, buttery, bright green olives that are found at most specialty markets. Golden balsamic vinegar adds sweet acidity without the dark color of regular balsamic, allowing the vibrant colors of this dish to shine.

YIELD

Serves 8

INGREDIENTS:

3 bunches asparagus
1 pint Castelvetrano olives
Good-quality extra-virgin olive oil
Golden balsamic vinegar
Kosher salt
Freshly cracked black pepper
4 medium watermelon radishes (see note)
1/3 pound wedge Perrydale or other semi-firm cheese

INSTRUCTIONS:

Have ready a large bowl of ice water. Working in batches, steam asparagus for 3 minutes in a steamer basket or bamboo steamer. Immediately transfer the asparagus to the ice water bath. When cool, transfer the asparagus to a paper towel-lined platter and blot dry. Use a sharp paring knife to slice each asparagus spear in half lengthwise or in thirds for those with thicker stalks. Cover and refrigerate until needed.
Pit the olives by crushing them with the side of a chef’s knife or other hard flat object. Work the pits out with your fingers and discard. Place the olives back into the olive juice (to keep their bright green color) and refrigerate until needed. (The asparagus and olives can be prepared up to 4 hours ahead.)
To assemble the salad, toss the asparagus in oil just to coat. Drizzle with vinegar, salt and pepper to taste and toss again. Divide the asparagus between 8 plates. Using a mandoline set on the thinnest setting, shave the radishes into thin rounds. Toss the radish slices in oil to coat, and then vinegar, salt and pepper to taste. Spread the radish slices across the center of the plated asparagus. Strain the olives from the juice and scatter them around the plates. Use a vegetable peeler to shave thin slices of the cheese on top and around the salad. Garnish with fresh, coarsely-cracked black pepper.

Asian chicken salad with green onion-sesame dressing

This is a refreshing, not-too-assertive cabbage and cellophane noodle-based salad. The dressing includes toasted sesame seeds, which you can buy, but it’s better to buy raw sesame seeds and toast them as directed to avoid the rancid flavors that sometimes accompany packaged toasted seeds.

YIELD

Serves 4

INGREDIENTS:

1 tablespoon soy sauce
1 tablespoon unseasoned rice vinegar
1/2 teaspoon sugar
2 teaspoons Asian sesame oil
1/4 cup vegetable oil
1/2 cup raw sesame seeds
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
3 green onions white and light green parts thinly sliced, green tops minced separately
2 quarter-size slices unpeeled fresh ginger minced
2 large garlic cloves minced
1/2 head (about 1 pound) green cabbage shredded
2 bunches (1 3/4 ounces each) cellophane noodles soaked in hot water 15 minutes, drained, and cross- cut twice (like quartering a pizza), see Cook’s Note
1 large carrot peeled, and shredded
1/2 large (about 6 ounces) cucumber peeled, quartered lengthwise, seeded, and thinly sliced
1/2/2012 Roast Chicken with Lemon, Garlic, and Fresh Rosemary skinned, boned, and shredded
Freshly ground pepper to taste
1 cup lightly packed fresh cilantro minced

INSTRUCTIONS:

To make the dressing: Combine the soy sauce, rice vinegar, sugar, sesame oil, and vegetable oil in a small bowl and whisk together. Put the sesame seeds in a small dry skillet over medium heat. Toast, stirring, until lightly browned but not burned. Scrape the seeds into the dressing.
In a 12-inch skillet or sauté pan over medium heat, heat the oil and sauté the white and light green parts of the green onions, the ginger, and garlic for about 30 seconds. Add the cabbage, tossing and stirring to brighten its color and wilt it slightly, about 2 minutes. Add the cellophane noodles, toss well, and turn out into a large bowl. Add the remaining ingredients. Toss, add the dressing, toss again, and serve.

COOKS NOTES

Cellophane noodles (also known as Chinese vermicelli and bean threads) are thin, opaque noodles sold in dried bundles. When soaked briefly they become translucent. They have little taste of their own, but soak up whatever flavors are around them.

Hot beef borscht

Wintry days make me hungry for comfort foods, and nothing satisfies more than this hearty Eastern European-style soup. I use either leftover brisket or roast beef to make the borscht. If neither is in the refrigerator, I buy a chunk of rare roast beef at the deli counter.

YIELD

Serves 6 to 8

INGREDIENTS:

3 tablespoons unsalted butter
1 large yellow onion cut into 1/2-inch dice
2 ribs celery cut into 1/2-inch dice
1 fennel bulb stalks and bulb cut into 1/2-inch dice, feathery fronds chopped and reserved for garnish
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon caraway seeds
1 teaspoon ground pepper
3 beets peeled and cut into 1/2-inch dice (see Cook’s Note)
1/2 small green cabbage cut into 1/2-inch dice
7 cups homemade chicken stock or canned low-sodium chicken broth
3/4 pound cooked brisket or roast beef cut into 1/2-inch dice
Kosher or sea salt
1/2 cup sour cream

INSTRUCTIONS:

In a heavy soup pot over medium heat, melt the butter and swirl to coat the pan. Add the onion, celery, and fennel and sauté, stirring constantly, for 1 minute. Cover and cook until the vegetables are softened but not brown, about 5 minutes. Add the coriander, cumin, caraway seeds, and pepper. Sauté, stirring constantly, until the spices are fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the beets, cabbage, and stock or broth and bring to a simmer. Partially cover the pot and simmer until the beets are tender, about 35 minutes.
When the beets are tender, add the cubed beef to the pot and heat through. Add salt to taste. Ladle into warmed soup bowls. Serve with a dollop of sour cream and garnish with the chopped fennel fronds.

COOKS NOTES

I use disposable surgical gloves when working with beets to keep my fingers from being stained red. Look for them at a pharmacy or in a supermarket where bandages and first-aid supplies are sold.

Spicy corn stew with chunks of salmon

This colorful meal-in-a-pot needs nothing more than a loaf of crusty bread to make a hearty supper. Add a salad if you like, but the stew is chock-full of vegetables. Making a corn broth from the cobs gives the soup an underlying complex sweet corn flavor. It’s an ideal pairing with the salmon, and the addition of a poblano gives the stew a bright chile flavor without being overpoweringly hot. A squeeze of lime and a pungent kick of cilantro are the perfect garnish.

INGREDIENTS:

6 fresh ears yellow corn shucked
2 large sweet onions such as Walla Walla, Vidalia, or Maui
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
8 cups cold water
3 tablespoons olive oil
2 celery stalks cut into 1/2-inch dice
1 large poblano chile seeded, deribbed, and cut into 1/2-inch dice (see Cook’s Note)
1 tablespoon fresh thyme minced
2 cups heavy (whipping) cream
1 teaspoon kosher or sea salt
1/8 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 (12 ounces) salmon fillet skin and pin bones removed, cut into bite-sized pieces
1/4 cup packed fresh cilantro leaves
1 lime cut into 6 wedges

INSTRUCTIONS:

Working with one ear of corn at a time, stand it upright, stem end down, in a large bowl. Using a sharp knife, cut downward along the cob, removing the kernels and rotating the cob a quarter turn after each cut. Reserve the cobs. Set the kernels aside. Cut one of the onions into thin slices and set aside. Cut the other onion into 1/2-inch dice and set aside.

In a heavy soup pot, heat the vegetable oil over medium-high heat and swirl to coat the pan. Add the sliced onions and sauté, stirring frequently, until soft and just beginning to brown at the edges, 10 minutes. Add the reserved corncobs and the water. Bring to boil, reduce the heat to a simmer, partially cover the pot, and cook until reduced to 4 cups, about 30 minutes. Using tongs, remove the cobs from the pot and discard. Pour the corn broth through a fine-mesh sieve into a clean bowl or, preferably, a 4-cup glass measure. Press down on the solids to extract as much liquid as possible. You should have 4 cups of strained broth. Set aside. Clean the soup pot ready to complete the soup.

Texas-in-the-bag chili

China bowls are highly overrated. I mean, who needs a bowl when you can slit open a snack bag of chips, pour chili on top, and grab a spoon? They’ve been doing this at Texas tailgate parties for years. Nothing leaks, and there’re no dishes to wash-how great is that? Fancy-up this party dish by serving bowls of sliced green onions, chopped cilantro, and sliced black olives on the side

YIELD

Makes 4 big servings

INGREDIENTS:

2 cans (15 ounces each) your favorite chili with beans
2 tablespoons diced canned jalapeño chile
2 tablespoons barbecue sauce
4 bags (4 1/2 ounces each) Fritos corn chips
1 cup (4 ounces) Cheddar cheese shredded

Optional Toppings

1/2 cup fresh cilantro chopped
1/2 cup green onions thinly sliced
1/2 cup sliced black oliveso

INSTRUCTIONS:

In a small saucepan, heat the chili over medium heat until hot. Stir in the jalapeño chile and barbecue sauce. Split open the bags of Fritos along the long back seam, and spread the bags open. Divide the cheese among the 4 bags, scattering it over the chips. Pour the chili on top, dividing it among the bags. Pass the toppings in bowls. Hand out spoons and chow down.